158 – How to Build a Child’s Rocking Horse (Part 1 of 2)
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158 – How to Build a Child’s Rocking Horse (Part 1 of 2)

September 1, 2019

Marc:The Wood Whisperer is sponsored by Powermatic. The gold standard since 1921, and by Rockler Woodworking and Hardware. Create with confidence. (lively music) Welcome to the first in
a two-part project series benefiting woodworkers fighting cancer. What we’re gonna build is a rocking horse. It’s just a very basic design provided by the folks at Wood Magazine. We have the plan available for you if you want to go to the website. You can go to thewoodwhisperer.com and find the links there or just go to
WoodworkersFightingCancer.com and all the instructions will be there for how you can download the plan and build along. The idea here is it’s a sponsored event so every person who builds one of these rocking horses
and sends me a picture contributes to the cause because each one of these sponsors is donating a dollar for
each completed rocking horse. It’s a really cool thing. I’m donating a buck myself and these companies are
matching my donations and we’re hoping to hit our
$10,000 goal for the year. It’s gonna be a super project. I hope you build along. Let’s see what you’re
gonna need to build it. A 3/4 inch by 20 inch by 72 inch pre laminated pine panel. I got mine from Lowe’s, and a length at 3/4 inch dowel stock. A jigsaw with a fine tooth blade, a router outfitted with
a 1/8 inch roundover bit, and a random orbit sander. A handsaw, a rasp and
your favorite square. A 3/4 Forstner bit, a counter-sink bit and some screws. A compass and a French curve. And some construction adhesive. Now before we get started of course, we have to have
our pre project ritual. It’s a tradition here in
The Wood Whisperer shop and this is no exception
with this project. (lively music) Now that, my friends is
what I call limbering up, Jersey style. Okay, so when you start this project you pretty much have two choices. You need to figure out how
do you wanna get the patterns on to the work piece because really you don’t
want to have to redraw all these things. The works is already done for us. You have two options. Number one, you could
print out the full size it’s referred to as
printer-friendly set of plans. Basically what this is, is a set of seven sheets of
paper that we’ll print out that you then have to
organize in particular order on your workpiece and
you tape them together, and when it’s all said and done you have the final shape. The cool thing is you
can just print this out using your home printer or office printer and it goes on these 8
1/2 by 11 pieces of paper. The drawback is you now have to tape all of these things together, so it’s kind of a bit of a
pain in the butt that way. The thing is, make sure if you do this that when you print out, you set your scaling
options to no scaling. You don’t want to fit to
page or anything like that. Just make sure that it’s no scaling and if you’re forced to
put a number in for scaling put it at 100%. You just want to make sure
that it’s printing raw and then when it’s done there’s a scale on the actual plans themselves and you could take a ruler to it and double check that it did print at the proper setting. Once you have that, put them all together and you’re good to go. But my preferred method is to take the absolute full size plan and take that PDF, put
it on a thumb drive, head over to FedEx Kinkos, Office Max, any place that does large scale printing and have them print that file out on a 24 by 36 piece of paper and that’s what I have here. For basically, I don’t know, it’s gonna be between three and $5 depending on their pricing, you could have this printed
out on one full sheet. It’s gonna make your
life a whole lot easier so I really, really
recommend you go this route instead of doing the home printing route because at this point all I need to do is stick this to the surface and I’m good to go. All right, that’s really the next step is to take all of our full size patterns and get them on to the workpiece. Now whether you glued up your own boards or whether you’re working with a single pre laminated board like I am, either way you just want to be strategic so you don’t waste material. Fortunately for this I’m following exactly what they
recommended in the plans. All I need to do is use
the diagram in the plans to transfer my drawings and everything directly to the workpiece. That’s the next step. Let’s get started. The first thing I want to do is draw the location of the saddle. Because that comes
first and then the body. I want to make sure the saddle is in place and we don’t actually have an
outline or pattern for that but we do have a diagram
in the plan that we can use to draw this in place and it’s gonna be fairly easy to do. First thing’s first. I want to measure up
seven inches from the edge and your edge should be
in pretty good shape. If it’s not you may want to
clean it up a little bit. Mine are pretty good
right from the package. Not too worried about that. Just gonna set my adjustable
square here for seven inches. That should be pretty good. Now our length here is 11 1/4. The saddle’s gonna have
a nice little notch here. The way we get that is
by measuring in 1 13/16. Looks so, and we need to go in 1
13/16 from the other end. We also need to measure in 3/4 of an inch, and that’s how deep the notch goes. Okay, so now this is a notch
that’s gonna be removed. Each of our four corners
gets a nice curve, it’s very easy to lay this out. I’ll show you one and it’s
pretty much the same thing on each of this four corners. We’re just gonna measure in 3/4 of an inch from the long edge here. Right about there. I’m gonna measure over two inches from the end grain. Now all we need to do is
connect those two lines using a curve. Just one of these traditional
drafting French curves is really perfect for this. Just a little tip here. To make sure that that curve, you can connect those two
lines with multiple places using the French curve. To make sure that it’s
the same on each one what I like to do is line it up to where I think it looks good and then I’ll just use
my marker or a pencil to place little hash marks that show me exactly what
part of the curve I use, so no matter where I’m at I could very easily line those things up. Put that in place. This does not have to perfect. This is really just decorative. There’s the saddle. Before I draw the rest of the pieces, I need to know where the main body piece is going to go. It’s a little bit of a tight
fit if you look at the diagram so I don’t really want to do my sticking of the templates
to the boards just yet. I want to do that all at once. What I’m gonna do here is take my full size template. Drop it on and I could
see through the paper. I could see where my marks are. Get everything approximately located where it’s gonna need to go here and then right at the end of the horse, basically it’s butt, I’m just gonna lift up
the paper, take my pencil and put a mark right at the
end of the body template, right here, all right? That lets me know even though my template isn’t in place, it shows me that I should go
any further past this line, but all this area up here is where I could put
the rest of my pieces. You know what, while we’re at it, let’s put in some marks for the main too. That will give us a real good idea where those boundaries are. Now, right behind the main I’m gonna draw in one of our saddle sides. We need two of these. Basically it’s about eight inches across. All right, we want to make sure that that eight inch span
fits comfortably in here. Okay, you don’t want it to
be too close to the saddle but it is gonna curve in. You should have no problem, and what I’m gonna do is make a mark. If this is my eight inches I want to make a mark
right here in the middle at what would be four
inches in the dead center. Now I’m just gonna extend that line down, then I’m gonna make a mark at 1 3/8 right on that center line here. The plans don’t call this out. They say the whole distance is 5 3/8 but I think you need to
know that it’s 1 3/8 here because that tells you
where to place your compass. Set your compass for four inches. Okay, we’re making basically a circle here with a four inch radius. Put the point right at that cross here and now draw in your fancy saddle. Now you don’t have to
necessarily redraw a second one if you don’t want to. You could certainly cut
this one out, shape it, and then use that as a
template for your next one but I’m gonna draw it here
just for the heck of it. Remember, you want to make sure you leave yourself enough
clearance between the pieces because you got to fit
a blade through there so don’t make it too tight. Now let’s sketch in the saddle back. I’m gonna give myself enough room from the previous piece,
from the saddle side and I’m just gonna draw a starting line and then I’m gonna measure
in 4 3/4 of an inch from that point. I also want to draw in the center line which is gonna be 2 3/8. Now I can extend that center line up into the board, and now I’m just gonna
draw a line at the top here which will represent the
top of the saddle back and that’s at 6 1/8 right there. Now at that 6 1/8 mark I
want to measure down an 1 1/2 because this is gonna be
where I put my compass point to draw the curvature of the top. Now the compass is set at 1 1/2 inches. Put the point and the cross here and I’m basically just
drawing a half circle here. Now all we need to do is
connect the bottom line to the point where it
intersects the circle. This doesn’t have to be perfect. Again, this is one of those things you’re probably never gonna
see it from 20 feet away. The child using it certainly isn’t going to be
pulling out a bevel gauge but let me just show you
one trick that you can use if you want to be a little
bit more picky about it. What you need is one of these adjustable bevel gauges here. Okay, loosen it up and I’m gonna set it so that it intersects with
this line and my circle. All right, once you have what you think is the perfect setting, lock it in and then you could draw your first line. Okay, just flip it over and do the same thing on the other side. Now you could be absolutely certain that those angles are dead on. Now let’s work on the front support. I’m gonna give myself
another starting line. In front of that starting point we’re gonna measure over 3 1/2 inches. Now the top of this front support piece is gonna be located 6 1/2 inches up from this bottom area here. I’m just gonna draw a
little line up there. We don’t know exactly
where it’s located yet or what this length is but we’re going to draw in some angles that will help us establish that. With a protractor, I just set
my bevel gauge to 80 degrees and now I can draw in my two lines here. Flip it do the other side. Our center support is drawn in exactly the same way as the front support, it’s just a few different measurements. You already have your bevel gauge set so this angle is already established. Just do the same thing
we did for this one. With all the drawings done we can now turn our
attention to the patterns. With a big piece like this
it’s probably a good idea to cut most of the excess off. It will just be much easier to work with and a lot easier to
locate on to the board. That’s the first step. I should mention, if you happen to have kids this is probably a really good project to bring them into the shop on. I mean you got a lot of
cutting to do with scissors. There’s pasting to do. Putting the templates on to the workpiece, and you’re using some very
basic tools to do this. Obviously with safety precautions in mind, this seems like a good one
to bring the kids in on. Here’s a quick tip for you. As you’re cutting out some
of these smaller pieces like the ears and the foot rest, some of them will have straight edges and you’re going to
reference that straight edge off of the edge of the work piece. It’s really nice if you can get your cut right along the line. But using your scissors to
make a perfectly straight line can be really tricky. You can make really quick work of it by working number one on
the sacrificial surface that you don’t care if you cut into. Take a nice straight edge. Put it right on your line and then use an X-Acto knife or box cutter whatever you have on
hand, a nice sharp blade and you can cut that piece right off, and now you know you have a perfectly straight edge to work with. Before sticking our
patterns to the surface you just want to make sure you double check yourself with the diagram and that you have everything
that you need in place. Plenty of room up here for a foot rest. Remember you have two foot rests to do so you’re gonna have to
print out two copies of that and one tail piece, and of course two of the ears, and they go down here
according to the plan. Really just try to mess things together in a way that it gives you … We rather have extra room than not enough. Once you’re pretty confident that everything is located in an area where it’s not going to
cross over to another piece, we could start sticking
these to the surface. Before I do that I’m gonna
be spraying my material. What I need is a very basic outline here. I’m just gonna grab a pencil. This doesn’t have to be perfect. This is just gonna give me
a general shadow outline that says keep your sticky stuff within these lines. That’s gonna be real
helpful so we don’t have the adhesive going everywhere. To attach our patterns
you could pretty much use any commercially available spray adhesive. Any one will really do the job. I’ve got lock tight here. The idea is you spray a nice
thin coat on the surface, let it set up for about a minute and then bring your patterns and drop them unto the surface. This stuff really isn’t very
good for you to breathe in so I definitely recommend
using a respirator and if you can open up some windows, get some good cross ventilation whenever you spray this stuff. I’m gonna gear up and we’ll get started. (spraying) Now I recommend placing
your small pieces first and this will give you a
little bit better of an idea of what to expect on the bigger pieces that can be more tricky. Since I have a nice straight edge on the bottom part of my ear, I’m going to take a ruler and just use that as a
rest for placing my ear. Now to position the big guy I’m gonna hold the head back like this. I’m gonna fold it back and try to make contact in only a couple places at once. I’m gonna do the bottom and the back, the main body piece here. Okay, that’s looking pretty good. Now we can sort of slowly unfold it. Like that. Before we do any cutting just in keep in mind
that this area over here is reserved for our second body piece. I’m gonna cut the first one out and I’ll show you later
how we can use that to cut out the second
piece very accurately so that they’re exactly the same. When you’re cutting
around all of these parts be real conservative about it because we still need to get something out of this right side. All of our cutting is gonna
be done using the jigsaw and I wanna show you the difference between a very fine cutting blade and a rough cutting blade. This guy here is very aggressive. Look at the big teeth on it. You could see it doesn’t have nearly as many teeth per inch as this smaller one does. The smaller size of this one allows me to navigate tighter curves. The recommendation generally is to go, aim for something that’s
about 20 teeth per inch. I believe this one is 18. That’s close enough for me. This guy is only about six
or seven teeth per inch so that’s gonna be a
much more aggressive cut. The cleaner these cuts are the less work we have to do later. Fine tooth blades are the way to go. Now you want to try and
get as close as you can but you definitely don’t want to go over. Basically judge your comfort level and make sure you don’t go too far. Leave yourself a little bit
of slack if you need to. You could always sand it
back to the line later. Just another quick tip. That spray tends to get obviously beyond our lines here, and it’s a little bit sticky, and that might make it tricky for the base of our jigsaw to ride along there. Take a little bit of dust
from the shop somewhere and rub that into the surface. That will effectively stop
it from being so sticky. (jazz music) Here’s another quick tip for you. If you have areas where things are gonna get really, really tight. This is a good example. You may have difficulty
navigating some tight turns depending on the size of your blade. It’s not a bad idea to take a drill. (buzzing) And just pre drill a couple of holes and those holes will
actually make it much easier to turn corners, all right? Anywhere like right in here. It’s a 90-degree angle right there. (buzzing) That little hole is gonna
make that so much easier to turn that corner when the time comes. (jazz music) Now I’ve got all of my parts cut and sitting here on the workbench, and they all need a
little bit of finessing. Not one of them is perfect to the line and that’s just the safe way to go. I’m either gonna sand
or use some other tool to bring it back to that line. You could certainly sand. I’ve got my random orbit sander here if I wanted to and I could
take it on that edge. The thing is when you’re dealing with a 3/4 inch thick piece of material, it’s very easy to roll it
to one side or the other and you lose that nice, crisp edge. Personally, I prefer to
use other types of tools for something like this. You could certainly use
something like a spokeshave but I’ve got this nice rasp here. It’s basically a wood file essentially that you could just ran across the surface and it’s really good for
hitting those high points. As you move it across the surface you really feel it snag whenever you’re at one
of those high spots. (scraping) (scraping) You can carefully work the edge until you’re back to the line. I could do this for all of my pieces. The one I want to focus
on first is the side because we need to cut
another one of this. Once I get this down to my line and it’s absolutely perfect, I’ll take it over to my
remaining cut off piece and trace around the outside
with a very thin pencil, a very tiny pencil line, and then I’ll cut that second piece out. Once you have your curve
looking the way you want it especially on a big long curve like this, you can then use something like this. This is a flexible sanding strip. Basically it’s just a piece
of eight inch hardboard with some shop made little handles here that were cut offs from another project. This side just gets a
little bit of sandpaper using pretty much the same spray adhesive that we used for our templates. The good thing is see how it flexes and conforms to whatever
curve you need to sand. (scraping) This will really smooth things out nicely. (scraping) In these tighter areas you’re
gonna have to get creative because you can only go so far with things like a rasp. What I recommend doing
is taking some hardboard or just some very thin stock and using your spray adhesive
to attach some sandpaper. Just like with the sanding strip. These little guys are great for getting into these tight areas. If you need to do flat
areas these are perfect. You may also want to consider
taking some dowel stock and just wrapping a little
sandpaper around that. This will allow you to get
into the rounder areas like so. All right, a lot of these stuff really isn’t absolutely super
critical that it be perfect. Just make sure it’s smooth and there’s no splintered wood. Ultimately we’re really concerned about safety at this point. We just don’t want any rough, splintery wood in these areas. For areas that are supposed
to be nice and straight like the front of the horse’s head, if you have a hand plane this is a great time to
just take a few passes right on the top here. This is end grain so it’s gonna be a little bit rough. Once you’re getting
contact all the way across, it’s nice and flat and all of your milling marks and your saw marks are gone. For the rest of these parts you’re really just gonna
follow the same procedures. You want to sand, scrape, plane, chisel. Do whatever you have to do to get back to your lines. The good thing is most of these parts especially the ones with the curves, they’re not necessarily as critical because these are just decorative elements and if they’re slightly
different than one another, I mean is anyone really gonna notice if these two ears are
slightly off from one another? It’s not too big of a deal. On the parts that have angled cuts you do want to get pretty
close to your pencil line just to make sure that those
angles are nice and tight because these are going to
hold the sides together. That’s just something to think about but just work your way
back to the pencil lines, and you should be good to go. Now that I’ve got one side piece pretty much shaped exactly
the way we want it, I’m gonna take it onto my remaining piece of my laminated board, and we can cut out the other side. That looks pretty good. I’m gonna take a very fine
five millimeter lead pencil and trace around because now I really want these pieces to be as close to each other as possible. Now I just need to cut
out and sand this piece so that it matches our first one. Once you have your second body piece cut it’s a good idea to bring
these two pieces together. Make sure that the bottom
is pretty much flushed. Line everything up and
just use your fingers. You don’t have to be
super precise about it but as long as it’s pretty
much even on the bottom then you want to take a
look up here at the saddle. Just feel with your
fingers and take a look. You want to make sure there’s
no major discrepancies here because you’re gonna be putting the saddle on top of these pieces. If one is significantly
higher than the other it can really screw things up. Just pay attention to that and if you need to do a little trim work go ahead and trim it up a little bit. Mine seem pretty good. I feel like maybe a 1/16
of an inch difference here and I’m really not to worried about that. The bottom, some of the
curvature is not matching up so I think this is a case where if we just clamp two pieces together we may be able to fix this fairly easily. With the pieces clamped together and the whole thing sitting in the vice, I can now actually work on both of these surfaces at the same time. Before you might recall, I said not to use a sander because it’s very easy
to roll it over the edge. In this case we’re actually working with two pieces sandwiched together. Now we have twice the thickness and it’s a little bit easier to keep things on track. I would recommend in this situation a good option certainly
is to take a sander to it so that’s what I’m gonna do. With our two body pieces
still clamped together, this is the perfect time
to start drilling through. We have our pattern here and it actually tells us
exactly what type of hole we want to put in these
particular locations. Frankly, they can get
a little bit confusing if you’re not careful. What I’ve done is I’ve
just marked certain ones with orange marker to show me the two different types of
holes that we’re gonna do so I don’t get confused. You work it out ahead of time and you avoid making mistakes. If you read the text here it says 3/8 of an inch hole, 1/4 inch deep with a 530 second shank. This is what I recommend you do. If you get a counterbore,
countersink bit like this this one has a stop collar. I picked this one up from Rockler. Basically, you’re gonna drill through with just the shank of the bit here on some of these holes, but on others you’re gonna
do a full counterbore. The reason for this is because it just depends on what we’re attaching
in those positions. For things like the foot rest and the ear the screw is gonna come in from the inside of this workpiece. We wouldn’t want to
counterbore here, right? All we’re gonna do is
punch a screw through we’ll be counterboring on the other side. All we need is a shank hole here so that we have that as reference when we flip the piece over and we could do the full counterbore. In other areas where we have pieces that connect the two body pieces together such as this one here, the screw is gonna come
in from the outside so we need the counterbores
in these locations and of course up here as well. All right, that’s what you
really want to think about but this one bit will
do everything for you. Just make sure you mark ahead of time and you won’t get confused. Now the clamp’s removed I could take the two pieces apart and before I really go
too far with these piece I just want to make a couple of marks because I want to counterbore before I flip this piece. The ones that need to be
counterbored on the inside are the ears, so I’m gonna
circle those just for reference. I need to counterbore down
here for the foot rest. All right and that should do it. The rest of these holes they’re still not all the way through so the counterboring has to
take place on the other side but I can’t do that if I don’t know where those holes are. Here’s the strategy. On the counterbored ones of course just drill all the way through. (drilling) All right, you got your counterbore there. On the ones that do not have
a counterbore from the inside I just want to create a hole that is now visible from the other side of the workpiece. I get the rest of these done. (drilling) Now I’m gonna flip the piece over and mark the locations that
received the counterbores from the outside. All right, these are support pieces. Those get counterbores and counterbore here but ear and foot rest do not get the counterbore
from the outside. (drilling) This is where organization really counts because now you need to
flip the original piece over and add the counterbores in the locations where they’re supposed to be. We haven’t done those yet. (drilling) On the outside face of
each one of our body pieces we need to drill a 3/4 inch wide, 3/8 of an inch deep hole and that’s gonna take the dowel rod which will basically serve as the handles. What I’m gonna use is
a 3/4 inch Forstner bit which gives us a nice flat bottom hole and the hole that’s already
there, our little pilot hole is gonna help guide the
center spur on this bit. Be careful with these things because especially if
you’re using a soft wood these can really get away from you. Just hold your drill very steady and if you have a drill press
it’s a good time to use it. (drilling) That’s all you need to do. The next thing we need to do is transfer the locations of our holes to the actual pieces that are going to be screwed together. For instance, we need to know exactly where those screws are gonna penetrate into the foot rest because if we don’t it’s gonna be very difficult
to position this in place and when the screw goes through there, if there’s no pilot hole it could very well split this work piece. What you want to do is line it up and just make sure that the workpiece is touching the dashed
lines there for reference and transfer the center line of that hole to your workpiece. Then I’m gonna place a
mark 3/8 of an inch down which is pretty much the
center point of workpiece. The 330 second of an inch pilot hole should do the trick. (drilling) Then you’re gonna wanna
follow the same process through the remaining
parts of the project. There is one more set of holes that we have to put in place and that’s where the tail
meets the back support piece. You should have a center line from drawing it originally. Measure up from the bottom a half inch. Place a mark there and that is where the bottom
of the tail is gonna start. Where you put these holes is actually not that critical. I’m just going to eyeball it here and let’s say we’ll put one about there and one about here, and I’m putting marks
on both the tail piece and the back piece at the same time. All I need to do is put my pilot holes just like we have with all
of our other pieces in here so this connects up
the screw easily enough and I’ve got my marks here. What I want to do is punch
through with the shank. (drilling) (drilling) Flip this piece over and then now we could do the countersink. (drilling) (drilling) Perfect. The next thing I want to do is clean up all of the flat surfaces, roundover my edges using a roundover bit and basically get everything ready for finish and assembly. Of course, here’s the bad side of using stick on template like this is we have to get this stuff off. There’s a few ways that you can handle it. Let me show you. Certainly one way to do it is to use something like a card scraper and you could slowly but surely scrape the paper off and expose the glue layer underneath. This is probably what I would recommend for the smaller pieces. It’s gonna be one of the
easiest ways to handle it. It’s not a real fun process but you’ll get there eventually. Just get as much of that
paper off as you can. On a large surface like the horse body once again, if you are so inclined, feel free to use your scraper. I’m actually going to sacrifice one of my random orbit sander pads and in fact, I always have
used ones laying around so why the heck not use it
for something like this. What I’m gonna do is
sand through the paper. The glue that’s underneath will gum up that sandpaper real fast, but the paper on the top
doesn’t have any glue on it so I should be able to sand through like I’ve done right here and get pretty close to that glue layer. (buzzing) After that quick sanding you could see it’s quite a bit cleaner and I don’t have any of that paper there, but don’t be deceived because the surface still has a lot of that adhesive on it. What I’m gonna do is use a
little bit of mineral spirits. I’ve got some odorless mineral spirits. This is that milky stuff that’s better for the environment. I’m gonna rub that into the surface using an abrasive pad and the abrasive pad is what’s
really gonna help pull up a lot of that adhesive material. Probably not a bad idea to spread a little on the surface, let it soak in for a second or two and then come back and wipe up the excess. Mine’s not absolutely
perfect at this point but I gave it some time to dry and I think any of the
remaining sticky parts will come up with the sandpaper. Probably gonna go through a couple of sheets to do this but I think this way is
just a little bit faster. (buzzing) Now it’s safe to take all of my parts, all of the small pieces
and sand everything up to 220 grit. That will get us ready for finishing. For some of these smaller parts you’re gonna have a tough time using something like a random orbit sander. You may just have to hit those by hand just to make sure they
get up to the final grit. Now our faces are nice and smooth and we still have this really sharp edges. Of course this is a child’s toy. We want to make sure that
these sharp edges are gone. A great way to do that is
to use a roundeover bit, and I have an eighth inch roundover bit in my trim router here. If you have a router table you could certainly put the bit in there. That will be just as easy. I’m gonna take this to all of the edges except for the ones where
some sort of joinery is gonna take place. This part of the saddle here there’s really no reason
to round that over. Areas like for instance
on these foot pieces, the foot rest where the
foot rest meets the body there’s really no reason to
round that edge over either. Everything else does get rounded over. Once again, if things are too small to do with the router which a lot of these smaller pieces are, you’re just gonna have to ease the edges with some sandpaper, and create that roundeover
as best you can. Same thing’s gonna happen up here by the horse’s mouth. We can’t get a router bit in there so we’re gonna do the best we can to match that profile using sandpaper. (buzzing) Of course a rocking horse needs a couple of handles. This 3/4 inch dowel rod is perfect. I have a mark here at 3 3/8 and I’m just gonna saw through. Of course we need two of these. Of course we don’t want to leave these really sharp ends here. One of these is gonna go
into that 3/4 inch hole that we created in the body but the outside edge here is gonna need a little bit of work just to make it a little
more user-friendly for tiny fingers. Just breaking the edge at 45-degree angle is really all you need to do. I still have a little bit of sanding and rounding over to do
today before I go home, but I think this is a good stopping point. Next time we’re gonna cover the assembly. We’re gonna do some pre finishing because it’s gonna be a lot easier to finish this stuff
before we put it together. Finishing and assembly next time. Thanks for watching. A big thank you to our event sponsors. Wood Magazine, Festool USA, the William Ng School of Fine Woodworking, Lie-Nielsen Toolworks,
Bell Forest Products, MicroJig and Highland Woodworking. And a special thanks to
our individual sponsors Erik Gilling and Joseph Buscemi. If you’d like to build this project or donate directly, head over to
WoodworkersFightingCancer.com. (lively jazz music)

Only registered users can comment.

  1. How about using a non-permanent spray adhesive and only spray it on the paper? This should save you quite some time and seems much less messy. Question ofcourse is it the adhesive is strong enough for working with.

  2. "I still have a little bit of sanding and rounding over to do today before I go home…" OK Norm 😉 ha ha
    Cool project for a good cause, look forward to the rest.

  3. Great video as usual Marc. To remove the paper that you attached to the wood with the spray adhesive, you might be able to use a heat gun. A youtuber called the 'scrollsaw workshop' uses spray adhesive frequently and he removes the paper with a heat gun. It might be worth a try. Thanks for the video ; )

  4. Thank you very mach for this video. I had an intention to make something lake that since I became an unсle. Yours seems to be pretty good and really inspiring.
    Looking forward to see your next episode…

  5. Hi there mark, i watched this wideo and i thout, if sanding this bouth sides of the horse, bouldynt be easy with a power sander if thet are both clamped together with something like 2'' thic piece of enything between????

  6. @cyberyiyo hmm…..don't think I ever said that. You're talking to the guy who used to have a pink feather boa hanging in my shop. 🙂

  7. Good tip on marking the French curve. If you don't want to mark the curve though, you could cover it with a strip of masking tape, first.

    To get an identical piece for the other half of the body, you could tape or clamp the two together and use a bearing-guided router cutter to trim it.

  8. Marc, once again a well done video. I've sent it to a few friends who are interested in woodworking, but haven't developed the skills to be confident self-starters. Your clear descriptions and proper tool use make this project a great introduction to new woodworkers, the fact that it's a fun piece and serves a good cause is icing on the cake.

  9. @materiasacra you can just print off another template if you need to. And I didn't really use the star/saddle portion of the template for anything on mine.

  10. Even if i dont do this particular project, i find that all of your videos add to my knowledge of woodworking to use on other projects. Thanks marc 🙂

  11. An easy way to transfer patterns with adhesive, is coat your project with blue painters tape first. you can mark your lines, then spray the paper not the wood. stick the pattern down. When your done, the painters tape peels off with no residue left, and you get no overspray onto parts that dont' have the pattern.

  12. Sorry I had to pause at 0:50 because youtube wanted to promote a pro-mormon video. I fell for the morman propaganda and converted. Anyways, back to the woodworking!

  13. @bradkrit lol well that's annoying. I think I might have to fire off an email about that. Not sure they will care but I am not a big fan of religious or political advertising, especially over my videos.

  14. @TheWoodWhisperer It wasn't obstructive of your video or anything, just above the suggested video list on the side. Guess the mormons paid for the "promotional video" slot. I agree with you though. Good video by the way!

  15. @bradkrit Ohhhh ok. That's a little different then. I feel better. Yeah the Mormons are on an advertising rampage. Frankly, they should take that advertising money and direct it toward something charitable instead using it to change public opinion.

  16. Not to put to hurt anyone's feelings but wouldn't donating the money used for this be more worthwhile if you just donated it instead of donating a dollar for building something that costs $20? I love the project but I'm just saying.

  17. @mojoeshaw You are misunderstanding what is actually happening. I am donating $1 per horse (actually more now) and we have seven corporate and three individual sponsors all matching my donation. The people who build them are able to donate them or simply give them to someone they know. This puts all the financial weight onto companies instead of on the individuals. A pretty smart and efficient way to raise funds for a charity if you ask me. 🙂

  18. @TheWoodWhisperer I understand now. Didn't quite grasp the concept at first but a very noble idea and a worthwhile project. I would recommend all builders donate their projects to local Christmas programs that collect toys for children. Every town I know of has children that are in need. Great project and if I may suggest, I'd love to see plans for several small projects for children like wooden trains, tops, bears, sleighs, dolls. Anything like that for kids at Christmas time. Thanks.

  19. 21:55 small flexible nail files will work well too. I use them for sanding tight corners like this and the binding channel on my guitars

  20. Could you just double stick tape the 2 boards together and cut them out on the bandsaw with a 8-th in. blade?

  21. Hello. I have a question? Wouldn't an easier way to transfer the blueprints to your work piece be by simply attaching them to the workpiece with a couple of pieces of tape, so they don't dance around, and then using indigo paper (I hope that's what it's called in english) to trace the lines on to the workpiece? It would certainly save you time by not having to scrape the glued on paper off the work piece.

  22. Unfortunately the full plans are no longer available for free. You'll have to get them from Wood Magazine's web store.

  23. O well i guess i'll have to improvise. Thank you for quick repond. You are a good craftman. You are a good teacher, keep up the good work.

  24. one question where do you buy your lumber again cause' mine doesn't come in a package lol jk and by the way your pretty cool

  25. it seems like you had some trouble getting that paper off the wood. ive seen many of steve ramseys videos, i dont remember what he uses, but he just pulls the paper right off. you should ask what he uses, it might save you some time

  26. Great video!! This is my daughters rocking horse that she got for Christmas!! 


  27. At 12:33 I really wish you had listed the dimensions of the center support. It took some extrapolation, but I finally figured them out. But, thank you for going though such detail on the rest of the measurements. Saved me from having to buy the no-longer free plan! 🙂

    I made it through everything in the first video in about an hour and it went great…. I can only imagine how many times you wanted to pull out your spindle sander during the cleanup phase. 🙂 

  28. Excellent video, as always 🙂 And I don't think I've ever hear you sing, Marc. But at 26:18, you obviously decided it was time. "Basically, you wanna drill ♫ through ♫"

  29. Do you have any issues with 'marker' ink bleeding into the wood, requiring deep sanding to remove the ink?

  30. Hei Mr Woodworker 🙂 To get the paper off, why not just use a spray bottle and spray boiling hot water on the paper? It'll peal off like a breeze and you'll save both time and a buck on sanding paper while you're at it

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