2009-2018 Ram 1500 Black Horse Off Road Black Roll Bar Review & Install
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2009-2018 Ram 1500 Black Horse Off Road Black Roll Bar Review & Install

August 17, 2019


So, if you own ’09 to ’18 Ram 1500 and you
do not have the Ram boxes in your truck bed, then the Black Horse Off Road roll bar is
going to be a very cool upgrade for a couple of reasons. Obviously, one of those big reasons is looks,
right? These things are pretty cool. They’ve been around for a long time, longer
than I’ve been alive. You’ve probably seen them on some pretty cool
off-road builds, so it’s nice to see them coming back for these newer trucks. They definitely have a classic look to them. One of the other reasons I really like this
is because you can actually take it all the way. There’s an optional light bar mount that goes
up top here. You can install up to a 50-inch LED light
bar, or if you wanted to go real old school, you could even do some cubed or round lights,
whether they be halogens or LEDs. Now besides looks, there’s plenty of functionality
here as well. This thing is certainly pretty sturdy. It’s made out of 4-inch diameter steel tubing
and it has a black powder coat finish on it. So, it’s safe to say that the functionality
and the durability certainly match the badass looks. Other than that, it installs quite easily. It is not a bolt-on job. There’s some very minor drilling required,
but it’s very straightforward, and I’m actually going to show you guys how to get it done
step by step. So, I’m going to go ahead and give the install
a moderate two out of three wrenches on my difficulty meter. Even taking your time and wiring up the third
brake light shouldn’t take you more than maybe two or three hours and that’s using some pretty
basic hand tools. So, if you like the look of the Black Horse
Off Road Roll Bar, want to get some cool functionality for your truck bed, maybe a little bit of
protection, or you just like that retro look, go ahead and stick around. Let’s go ahead and show you how to get this
install done. To install your new roll bar, you will need
the following tools: the included Allen keys, a center punch or transfer punch, safety glasses,
a Phillips head screwdriver, a standard drive ratchet, a 10-millimeter socket, a 13-millimeter
deep socket, 18-millimeter socket and 18-millimeter wrench, a 7/32 drill bit, a 1/2-inch drill
bit or a step bit, wire crimpers and snippers, spade connectors and quick splice connectors,
a knife, a pair of snips, electrical tape, a hammer and a hand drill. Obviously, an optional tool includes a cordless
impact. So, like I mentioned earlier, this is actually
a pretty easy install. I know the instructions look really long and
involved. It’s very helpful that you actually set up
all the parts and tools you need for each step. I actually did that for you guys. So, we’re going to be doing a lot of work
on the table. Before I go through each step, I’m actually
going to show you exactly how you need to set up all those bolts, nuts, and washers. So, without further ado, let’s go ahead and
show you how to connect the two primary bars together. So, to connect, the two primary bars, you’re
going to need to set up your tools just like you see here. If you know your metric sizes, these are M8
bolts and M8 nuts. You’re going to need a crush washer and a
flat washer. You’ll thread each bolt through the connecting
points on the tubes, and you’ll secure them with another flat washer and another nut. To tighten everything down, you’re going to
need the second largest Allen key in the kit and you’ll also need either a 13-millimeter
deep socket or a 13-millimeter wrench. All right, so go ahead and grab your bolts
with those crush washers and flat washers, thread them through the holes on either end
like so. Then once you’ve done that, go ahead and grab
the other flat washers and nuts and secure them on the other side. All right, once you’ve got those hand tightened,
go ahead and drive them home with your Allen key and your socket or wrench. You want to make sure that these plates are
set up the way I have them on the table with this flat plate, followed by this red colored
plate, and then the logo plate on top. Now, to secure all this stuff together, you’re
going to be connecting them to the tubes using the hardware that I have here. These are the M6 bolts and nuts, otherwise
simply known as the smallest bolts and nuts in the kit. It’s the same setup. You’ll need crush washers, flat washers, thread
them through the plates, secure them with more flat washers and the nuts. You’ll need a 10-millimeter socket and the
second smallest Allen key in the kit. All right, once you got one side done, obviously,
you’re gonna do the same exact thing to the other side. All right, now that we have those logo brackets
on either side, we can install the support brackets to actually secure this nice setup
to the truck itself. I’m gonna go ahead and show you guys what
hardware you need to get that done. So, this install step’s pretty straightforward. You’re going to grab what they called gum
covers, these nice little rubber O-rings. Secure those to the bottom of the tubes themselves. You’re then going to secure the brackets using
these four large bolts and you’re gonna need the largest Allen key in the kit. All right, now we have our mounting brackets
installed and tightened down, we’re going to go ahead and throw this thing onto our
truck where it’s going to live, make sure everything’s lined up, and then I’m going
to show you guys where you need to drill some holes. All right, so now we have our roll bar in
place and we’re happy with where it’s sitting. Generally speaking, you want it flush with
the bulkhead of the bed itself. Once you’ve got everything lined up and you’re
happy with where it’s going to live, you can go ahead and mark the holes that you’re gonna
drill using a couple of punches. All right, so once you have your holes marked
with that center punch, you can go ahead and pull the roll bar back off the truck. I’m going to show you guys how to set up all
the hardware for these brackets, and I’m also going to show you what hardware you should
use to drill out these holes. All right, so this is the last of the hardware
that you need to install your bar. There are a couple of different ways you can
go about drilling the holes, but I like to start off with a center punch, that way I’m
sure that I’ve marked the metal underneath that plastic liner. Now, when you go to drill the hole, you can
either drill a pilot hole, I like to use the 7/32 bit and then step it up to the half-inch
that we’re going to need, or if you want to be a little advanced, you can use one of these
bits right here. Again, you’re going to need a 1/2-inch hole
either way. The hardware that you’re going to need is
the last in the kit. You’re going to need these large bolts with
crush washers and flat washers on them. You’re going to thread these through the bar
and the truck bed itself, and then you’re going to tighten them down with these flat
washers and these nuts. To tighten all this hardware down here, you’re
gonna need an 18-millimeter wrench as well as an 18-millimeter socket. All right, so now we have all our holes drilled
and cleaned up, we’re going to throw our bull bar back on and we’re going to throw that
hardware in place that I mentioned earlier. Again, you’re gonna need an 18-millimeter
wrench and an 18-millimeter socket to tighten all that stuff down. All right, so we finally have our roll bar
installed. As you can see, this thing is pretty sturdy. It’s at least sturdy enough to hold somebody
like me. Now, the fun part comes, and that’s actually
wiring up our third brake light. Now, I didn’t mention anything about this
earlier because I didn’t want you guys to get hung up on it. There are no instructions on how to do this,
but if you noticed in the beginning, there are little grommets inside the tubes here. Basically, what they want you to do is wire
this all the way through the tubes, down to the bottom of the cab, and that’s where things
kind of end. I’m actually gonna show you a much easier
way of going about it. We’re actually going to splice off all this
crazy extra spaghetti here. We’re gonna make a nice short connection from
our new third brake light to our existing third brake light. It’s easy, you only need hand tools, so, I’ll
go ahead and show you guys how to get that done. Okay, so like I said, we’re going to wire
our new third brake light directly into our existing third brake light. Really easy way to go about this is to have
two spade connectors as well as two quick splice connectors. We’re going to feed directly into the existing
power of our current third brake light. Because these wires are outside, we’re also
gonna have some electrical tape to wrap them up, and you’re going to need a pair of Vise-Grips,
a crimper, and a stripper. So, as you can see, wiring up the third brake
light is pretty straightforward. Now, the way I did it is just one method. Couple of things to keep in mind if you wanted
to, you could tackle the whole wiring through the tube bit and if you wanted to, you could
actually wire it into your taillight and that would actually get rid of any exposed wiring
whatsoever, but it’s a little bit more time-consuming. One other thing, if you wanted to only have
the new brake light lighting up, then you could remove the bulb from the original one,
that way you don’t have both lighting up at the same time. But at any rate, I just wanted to show you
guys how to get it done, that way you have a nice little warm and fuzzy overall. That also wraps up my review of the Black
Horse Off Road Roll Bar fitting your ’09 to ’18 Ram 1500. I’m Travis. Thanks for watching. For all things Ram, keep it right here at
americatrucks.com.

Only registered users can comment.

  1. Shop This Black Horse Off Road Black Roll Bar: http://bit.ly/2x3yJDd
    Or This Stainless Steel Black Horse Off Road Roll Bar: https://amtrucks.at/2NHJbMc
    Subscribe for Weekly RAM Truck Videos: http://bit.ly/2G7fgWv

  2. ordered mine.. should be here tomorrow.. I do have a question tho.. the bar that goes thru the middle of up the upright tubing.. what size is that tube 1 inch?

  3. could I cut off the skinny bar that goes across the middle and blocks the view of sliding rear window? love the roll bar but don't like that skinny bar

  4. those holes you drilled look awful close to the edge of the lip, how are they holding up. I've seen some people have them rip on them?

  5. Can we call it a roll bar as there is no connection with the chassis? How would it perform with an actual rollover… ?

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