Clinton Anderson: Training a Rescue Horse, Part 11 – Downunder Horsemanship
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Clinton Anderson: Training a Rescue Horse, Part 11 – Downunder Horsemanship

October 18, 2019


(bright music) – I’m Clinton Anderson, and I have a method for training horses. Getting horses to behave is simple. It’s training people
that’s the real trick. Join me as I tackle some of
the most challenging situations with problem horses and
with problem owners. (crashing) (bright music) On today’s show, mate, I thought we’d work with
our rescue mare Cider, and I wanted to show
everybody some techniques and concepts and ideas on how to get your horse to stand tied with their legs hobbled. And you might ask yourself, well, why would you ever
wanna hobble a horse? Well, for people who don’t
know what hobbling is, hobbling is a term or procedure in getting the horse to stand still without being tied up to
a tree or post or rail, but stand tied with their legs
restricted without panicking, without getting upset
about it or fighting back. See, basically, horses have
a flight or fight reaction. Flight is their ability
to run away from danger. So any time a horse feels threatened or feels like his life is in danger, the first thing that Mother
Nature says is to run first. What we wanna do is teach
the horse not to run but actually to use the
thinking side of his brain. Now, if a horse can’t flight
or run away from danger, he naturally feels like the
next-best option is to fight. That’s when the kick,
bite, strike, et cetera comes into the program. So if a horse is running
away from a bunch of lions and they eventually catch up
and jump on that horse’s back, that horse’s only defense
is to kick, bite, strike, and attack those lions
to get ’em away from him, and then he can start running again. So what I’m gonna do in today’s show is show you some concepts and ideas on how to safely get
your horse to stand still and be hobbled without a fight. My name’s Clinton Anderson, and in today’s program, we’re
gonna be working with Cider. Cider is our rescue mare. You’ve seen her over the last few weeks. We’ve been making tremendous
progress with this mare. She came from Habitat for Horses. She was starved, she
was abused, mistreated, and we’ve had her now for
about five or six weeks, and she’s doing great. She’s really coming along. At the end of a 13-week series, we’re actually gonna give
Cider away to one lucky owner. The horse trained, the saddle,
the equipment, bridles, a bunch of products. Everything’s worth about $30,000. One lucky owner’s gonna
take all of that home. So in today’s lesson, I wanna
teach Cider not to panic if she feels like her legs are restricted. There’s three ways that you
can control a horse’s mind. The first way is being
able to create movement, getting the horse’s feet to move. The second way you can
control a horse’s mind is by redirecting that movement, forwards, backwards, left, and right. And the third way you can
control a horse’s mind is by inhibiting movement,
shutting those legs down, getting the horse so he can’t run away. Now, it’s very, very important that you don’t start
any of the third method until the first two are really good, you can move the horse’s feet and you can change the
direction of the horse’s feet. And we’ve done a lot of that
with Cider up till this point, haven’t we, preparing her for this lesson. It’s very, very important
to do this preparation, because that’s gonna cut
down on your horse’s desire to wanna panic and fight. Now, you might ask yourself, why do we want to teach her
to have her legs be restricted without her panicking or fighting? Well, believe it or not,
it’s for two reasons. Number one, it’ll get her to be much, much
more submissive and passive and trust us a lot more, but another thing that’s
really important is, it’ll teach her not to endanger
herself or other people if she ever gets her legs
hung up in a fence, in a gate, or in a bad situation. It’s not if your horse ever gets their leg caught in a fence, it’s not if they ever get
their foot caught over a wire. It’s just when. So by teaching your
horse how to stand still, using the thinking side of his brain, without reacting and fighting, we’ll get that horse to a point where if he ever does get his leg hung up in a gate or a fence
or in a bad situation, he’ll just stand there and be submissive and wait till somebody gets
the horse out of that position. Before we get started, mate, on actually showing you
the hobbling techniques, it’s very important that you
understand the basic elements your horse has to know
before we get started. To begin with, we’ve covered
this a lot with Cider, but I wanna go over it again, is making sure that your
horse is not frightened of you or your tools. You need to be able to throw
your halter and lead rope all around your horse’s body and not have the horse be
jumpy or reactive or spooky. Very, very important to make sure the horse is not frightened
of you or your tools. Next thing you wanna be able to make sure is you can spank the ground
with your stick and string, that your horse is not worried about it. Horses hate objects, especially objects that
move and make a noise, so it’s very important that
you flog ’em with kindness, spanking the ground without
getting the horse upset. Good girl. She’s standing here nice and calm. Wanna be able to swing
it above their head. So as you can see,
Cider’s very, very quiet, and she’s not reacting to me and my tools. So that’s the first thing that you need to make sure your
horse will stand and accept, is the movement of you and
your tools around them. Some other basic elements that you wanna make sure your horse can do before you get started
with these techniques is you wanna make sure that you can yield the
horse’s hindquarters. Stage one, get them to
disengage their hindquarters. Get them to yield their forequarters. See how Cider’s being respectful and she’s moving away from that pressure? Another great exercise
is the sending exercise, making sure that you can
yield their hindquarters, bring ’em through. Yield. Bring it through the gap. Yield. All right. Another great little exercise to teach ’em is making sure that you can
side pass ’em down that fence. They’ll move their feet away from you. Good girl. Yield her hindquarters,
come through the gap. I love how soft Cider is. She’s nice and soft and relaxed. Front, back, front, back. Front, back, front, back. Also, move their feet. I wanna make sure the horse is respectful, that he’ll back away from me. Now, marching exercise. These exercises are the bare
minimum your horse should know before you start the hobbling procedure. You should be able to back
your horse in circles, and then bring her back through this way. That’s a girl. Yield that forequarters. There we go. Excellent. Another important factor is making sure that your horse will flex. I like a horse that’s really light. Good girl. That’s a girl. The lighter you can get
your horse on that halter, the better, especially for under saddle. If they’re stiff on the ground, good girl. I love that, when she keeps
her head bent like that. Good girl. So as you can see, she’s not
frightened of me or my tools. I can move her feet forwards,
backwards, left, and right. So really, the first two categories
are covered, aren’t they? Remember I said there’s three ways you can control a horse’s mind. The first way is by,
what, creating movement, getting the horse’s feet to move. The second way you can
control a horse’s mind is by redirecting that movement, forwards, backwards, left, and right, and that’s what I just did then, by moving her feet forwards,
backwards, left, and right. And now the third way that we’re gonna use to control her mind, which
is by inhibiting movement, and that’s what we’re
gonna talk a lot about in this particular issue. So let’s move on from this point, mate. When you can get a horse to stand still and be hobbled without any resistance, without them panicking, you’d be amazed at how much
more submissive the horse gets. If I’ve got a wild horse, a horse that’s very wild and untrusting, if you can get that horse to lie down, you can teach him how to lie down, when they get back up, it’s amazing how much more
submissive a horse gets. So a lot of people have this phobia, that they think hobbling a horse is like in the old Western movies, how you tied all their legs up and you flipped them over backwards and you beat ’em up with a stick, and kinda like, you know,
the breaking in method, where they used to break
a young horse’s spirit. Well, years ago, that’s how
they used to hobble horses. They’d just hobble all
their legs together, and the horse would fight and struggle and flip over and lie down, and they’d cover the horse up with a tarp and leave him there for
hours and mistreat him. We’re not trying to break this horse, we’re not trying to break his spirit. What we’re trying to do is teach her that any time she feels
her legs being restricted and she doesn’t have movement on ’em, don’t do what Mother Nature says. Mother Nature says, you
need to panic and fight. Whenever you can’t move those feet, you need to panic and fight. I want her to, you know what,
if I can’t move my feet, I should just fall asleep, relax, and use the thinking side of my brain. So let’s get started with
the first technique, mate. – Check out our latest catalog
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imagery and in-depth information on all the products used in this show. Visit our website or call this number, and we’ll send it to
your door free of charge. (bright cinematic music) (upbeat rock music) – There’s three basic
pieces of equipment, mate, that are used in teaching my
horses to stand tied hobbled. Our first piece of equipment is what we call our one-legged hobble. The one-legged hobble is basically that, as it ties one leg up. And it enables me to
restrict one leg at a time. Basically, my theory
behind hobbling a horse is instead of just taking
away all the horse’s legs, so it’s very dramatic, to
where he can move all four feet and all of a sudden we hobble
all of his legs together, and then he panics, I just wanna take one leg
away from him at each time. So I’ll take one leg away
and get him used to that, and then I’ll take two legs away, and then I’ll take three legs away, until eventually he can’t
move any of his legs. And by doing it that way, you reduce the risk of having the horse just really panic and fight and hurt himself or
hurt you in the process. So there’s a kind of
method behind my madness, is we do it in stages to give the horse a chance to understand. So we use the one-legged hobble. Then we’ll use what we call our sidelines. Our sidelines basically connect two legs together at the same time. And then we have our rope hobbles, which connect the front legs together. So let’s just get started, mate, and I’ll show you how it works here. Let me put those two. First thing we’re gonna do
is use the one-legged hobble. So in doing this, I’m gonna make sure that
she’ll pick a foot up here, so I’m gonna squeeze and get
her to offer me that foot. There we go, good girl. She’s pretty quiet, so I’m
just gonna drop that down. So I just lay this
across her pastern here, and I take the one-legged hobble
through itself, like that, and I pull it up just like that. Now what I’m gonna do is, I’m going to take it around
her forearm and buckle it off. Take it around her
forearm and buckle it off. Now, when I buckle it off, it’s going to put her in a
little bit of a bind here. So it’s very important here
that I step away from her, because at this point, they probably will struggle
just a little bit here. See, this is new for her. She doesn’t know how to
survive on three legs. So it’s very, very important to use the halter and lead rope, my rope halter and lead
rope with a 14-foot line. So right now, this is like a little bit
of a brain-twister for her. She’s thinking, you know what, how can I stand up when
I’ve only got three legs? So I don’t wanna hassle her at this point. I just wanna give her a
chance to think about it. See, automatically she’s
starting to lick her lips? That’s a good sign. (clicking) So now what I’m gonna do is, I’m gonna ask her to actually move. I wanna show her that she can still move, but she can only do it with three legs. (clicking) There we go. Excellent. There we go. Now I’m just gonna wait. There. Wait till she stands up there and relaxes. And now what I’m gonna do is, I’m actually gonna take this off, just like that there. Good girl. Excellent. I want her to realize
that if she doesn’t panic and doesn’t overreact, I’ll take this off her very, very quickly. There’s five signs of a horse relaxing. What are they? Lowering their head and
neck, licking their lips, cocking their hind leg, taking a big breath or sighing, or the fifth one is blinking their eyes. So that was a great sign then, that she kinda took a big breath and she licked the lips,
all at the same time. Good girl. It’s funny, horses are almost like kids. The more you want ’em to do
it, the less they wanna do it, or the more you don’t want ’em to do it, the more they wanna do it. So by actually encouraging
her to lunge around me, what that does is, it
really makes standing still look like a pretty good deal. Because for her to lunge
around on three legs, it actually takes quite a bit of work for them to lunge around on three legs. It’s kinda like you, you know,
hopping around on one foot. You could do it, but it takes
a lot more air away from you compared to just walking on two feet. So by lunging her around a couple circles and then letting her stop and relax, and then when she relaxes, walking up and taking the hobble off, it encourages her that, number one, standing
still is a good option, and then number two, relaxing is what will get
the hobble off your leg. That’s what will get you out of that bind. So some horses, of course,
will struggle more than others. She struggled a little
bit, but not much at all. Typically, that’s what I
would expect out of a horse. The better groundwork you’ve done and preparation leading up to this point, the less struggle the horse would have. I’m sure that the first day we got Cider, if we would’ve brought
her into this round pen and put this on her, she would have reared up and struck out and fought a lot more. Now, it’ll still work if you
don’t do your preparation, but the chances of the
horse hurting themselves or you getting hurt is a lot higher. So again, I very much encourage you to do the beginning program
first, do the groundwork, and then start with it. – [Man] (mumbles) ready to
resume count, and go for one. The rider has 10, nine, eight,
(beeping) seven, six, five, four, three, two, one, zero. (rock music) (bright cinematic music) (dramatic music) (cheering) – So we did one leg, she did pretty good there.
(gentle folk music) Let’s do the other side. There we go. Good girl. Now, normally, if she was kinda wild, I would keep this lead right by my arm, but she’s pretty quiet here. So again, you lay it across, go up here. Everything I’m showing you is in detail on our hobbling and leg restraints DVD. Pull it up nice and tight. There we go. Now, it’s important once
you get it done up tight to step back. Don’t be hanging around close to ’em, in case they might rear
up or do something silly. You don’t wanna be close to ’em. (clicking) So I wanna move her around on this side. That’s it. I’m gonna yield her hindquarters. Good girl. (clicking) Move her off that way. See how she’s getting a little tired now? She’s like, man, this moving around, it’s not quite as much fun
as I thought it would be. I’m gonna go ahead and
yield her hindquarters. Good girl. (clicking) Yield her hindquarters. There we go. I’m gonna wait here. Don’t let her get close to you here. See how I’m backing her
away with that rope? Now I’m waiting here
for her to stand still. I want her to think standing
still’s a good deal. I like that. That’s a good sign. See how she lowered her head and neck? Great sign of submissiveness. Immediately take this off. Good girl. She’s licking her lips, another good sigh. So she kind of moved
around there pretty good for awhile, didn’t she? And then you could tell,
after about two circles she started to get a little tired, and then she’s kinda like, man, this is a lot more
work than what I thought. That’s the perfect time
to let ’em stop and rest. And as soon as she stood still and she showed me a sign of relaxing, which was lowering her head, I immediately took the hobble off. That couldn’t be better timing. As soon as she relaxed, I said, hey, let me take that off you. Good girl. So by just taking away one
of her legs at any one time, it’s not such a dramatic
change for the horse. So there’s always still gonna be some fight involved with the horse. What we’re trying to do
is minimize the fight and minimize the chance
of her hurting herself or hurting you in the process. So let’s do it one more time here. Squeeze, ask her to give me that foot. There we go. And you don’t have to lunge
around a long way, of course, just enough to where they
wish they were standing still. They’re gonna move regardless, so you might as well be
the one that moves ’em and takes credit for it, and then when they wanna stand still, you look like the good guy. (clicking) You can even do a little
lunging stage two. Stop, do a little rollback. Step in front, do a little rollback. (clicking) Stop, do a rollback. And then yield, and yield
her hindquarters here. That’s a girl. Don’t get in close to those front legs. Oh, I like that. What’s she doing? She licked her lips. I’m coming in from the side, notice I’m coming in from the side. Good girl. Don’t come in from the front, ’cause if they rear up and
strike out, they might get you. Always come in from the
side of the shoulder. I love that she licked her
lips and she lowered her head, two good signs again. Good girl. (upbeat music) (dramatic music) – [Man] Anything worth
having is worth working for, that’s for sure. Not gonna make it here if
you got any quit in you. – This is where I needed to
be the best that I could be, and that’s just what we do here. – [Narrator] Dedication,
ambition, passion. To some, these are more than ideals. They are a lifestyle, a code,
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Certified Clinician and change your life. (upbeat rock music) Good girl.
(bright folk music) The last thing I wanna do is put this one-legged hobble on her and then just leave her
there for three hours and torture her. That’s not what we’re trying to do here. We’re trying to teach her that if you feel your leg
restricted, do not panic. If you stand still and relax, that problem will disappear for you. Good girl. So our first step is just
getting each front foot to understand that it can be picked up, there’s no need to panic
and strike and fight. You can move around, but it’s quite a bit of hard
work to move around, isn’t it? If you’ll just stand still and relax, that hobble will come off
you very, very quickly. Just like if my horse’s
leg is caught in a fence, a horse that’s not trained to do this, I guarantee the first
thing they’re gonna do, as soon as they realize
their foot is stuck, they’re gonna panic
and jerk that foot out. But if you’ve taught your horse to accept pressure around his legs, and you’ve taught him
not to panic and fight, when he feels his leg is trapped, as soon as he goes to pull his leg out, once he realizes, yeah,
there’s some pressure on it, he’ll do this. He’ll come forward and relax. And I guarantee this works, again, I’ll prove it to you later on, that they’ll get very submissive. So that’s our one-legged hobble there. Now, you could see that that wasn’t that big of a deal with her, first of all, because we didn’t do this in the first lesson, did we? You know what I mean? We’ve done this after
we’ve already completed all of the groundwork series and series one in our round pen series. So she knows how to be respectful, she knows how to use the
thinking side of her brain, she’s not scared of me or my tools, so that’s why we didn’t
get into a huge fight. Every single time she stood
still and she relaxed, what did I do? I took the hobble off straightaway. And that’s laying a foundation for her not to panic when she feels
like her legs are restricted. The next thing I would like to do here is we’ll go ahead and
put the sideline on her. Now, the sideline is going to restrict two legs at the same time. So I’m gonna make it just
a little bit harder for her in some ways here. Actually, I put it on the wrong foot, I wasn’t paying attention. Normally I put it on the hind leg first. Now, of course she’s pretty quiet with the legs and so forth. I’ve already done a lot
of handling with the legs. Now I’m gonna pick this
up here, there we go, and just bring her leg forward, like so. And then I’m gonna do
her front leg, like that. OK. Now her front and back leg on
the same side are connected. So she can still move around, but it’s kinda like her
shoelaces are tied together. You can still move if your
shoelaces are tied together, but you have to think
about how far you step. Now, she can’t trot, of
course, when she’s like this, so as long as she walks
forward, that’s fine with me. But I want her to think standing still is a much better option. Let’s see what she does. There, I like that,
lowering her head and neck. Good girl. Now what I wanna do is, why don’t we go ahead and
disengage her hindquarters with the sideline on, just making sure I can move
that hindquarters laterally, because whatever we do on one side, we’re gonna do on the other. Let her think about that. (rock music) – [Narrator] Ever wish Clinton
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Anderson clinic at his ranch, now you have an option. Get accelerated results. Let a Clinton Anderson Certified Clinician bring the method to you. Visit certifiedclinician.com for more. (bright folk music) – So let’s take this off and work with her on the other side. Any chance you get, always
go back and desensitize her and make sure she’s not worried
about you or your tools. That’s a girl. You pull this foot forward now. That’s it. Keep her head tipped towards
you when you’re on that side. Finish off and flex her. Let’s do it on the other side now. Pull it up here. That’s why you put it
on the back one first, so you can pull that hind leg up. OK, new side, new brain. That’s why we do it on each side, ’cause in her mind, she’s never
had these legs restricted. You’ll find that one side, they’ll fight you a little
bit more on than the other. The only difference when
I’ve got the sidelines on, I don’t usually change
directions when I’m going around, because I don’t want that other hind leg to step over the strap. There we go. (clicking) There, see how she’s kicking? Did you notice how when
she kicked just then, she kind of pulled that front foot out from underneath her, didn’t she? This is a great response from her. She’s standing still,
she’s nice and relaxed. That’s great. Let me go in here and just
yield her hindquarters just a little bit here. Yield that hindquarters around. Great. OK, flex her head here. Good girl. Bring that foot forward. OK. So now we’ve used the sideline on her and we’ve got her to a point to where she’s had both
front legs restricted with the one-legged hobble, and then she’s had her
front leg and a back leg restricted on the same side, so now we’ve technically put pressure on each one of the four legs, that she’s had a chance to feel like she can’t move as
much as she wants to. She’s pretty much having
a textbook reaction to what’s happening to her. She’s fought and struggled a little bit, but nothing real bad, no
major panic and fighting. And again, I keep coming back to it, that’s the reason why you
do the groundwork first, is to cut down a lot of that fight. The less groundwork you do and the less your horse is respectful before you get started, the more fight you’re usually gonna have. I like this. Do you notice that she’s
actually more passive? That’s what happens. Horses get a lot more submissive when you can take their
legs away from ’em. Now, initially they’ll struggle
more and they’ll get worse. But after they go through that struggle and they realize that
panicking and fighting is not the right answer, then they get very, very submissive, and that’s what she’s
starting to do right now. She’s doing great. (rock music) – [Narrator] Clinton Anderson,
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Anderson tour event near you. (rock music) – Now, mate, what we’re gonna do is, we’re gonna introduce
the front hobbles to her at the same time. I went ahead and put the
sidelines back on her, and now I’m gonna connect her front legs and tie ’em together. There’s lots of different hobbles, different designs you can use. You can have leather ones
or, in this case, rope ones. It’s just personal preference. I personally like the rope ones like this. They’re easy to put on,
they’re easy to get off, I can tie ’em to my saddle. I just like the feel and
look of the rope ones better. Now, the reason why I wanna go ahead and put the sideline on her when I connect her front legs together is that when you first tie a
horse’s front legs together, they’re going to have a tendency to, when they first go to walk off, because it’s much harder
for them to walk off when their front legs are tied together, they’re gonna have a tendency to usually wanna rear up in the air. Well, if you’ve got the sidelines on and they go to rear up in the air, they’re very limited to
how high they can go. So they can’t do the whole
rear up and hi-ho, Silver and, you know, do the
whole striking out thing because their front foot
is tied to their back foot. So always put the hobbles on when you’ve got the sideline on. They can still jump up in the air, but they just can’t go very far. And I find that when they
can’t get their front feet off the ground very far, they just don’t seem to wanna struggle anywhere near as much. But if you just put the
front hobbles on ’em, usually they’ll rear up
a lot more and struggle. They can still get out of it. Eventually they’ll figure out struggling’s not the way to go. But I’d rather cut down on
the struggling if I can. So to begin with, let me
just bring this foot up here a little bit here. There we go. I’m gonna squeeze this one here. There we go. OK. (clicking) We’ve kinda gotta bring
the feet closer together. So basically, what I do is, I go around the outside leg and I twist the hobble in three twists, one, two, three, just like that. And you go around their
leg and through the loop, just like that there. I’m gonna step back now, because they will struggle a little bit, and you don’t wanna be close to ’em. So when I first put ’em on, I just stand back and just
let her think about that a little bit. Now, if you’ve already done the
method that I’ve showed you, her desire to wanna move
around is not real high, ’cause she’s realized that standing still is a much better option
than running around. So I just let her kinda think about it. Next thing I’m gonna do is just kinda yield her
hindquarters a little bit. I might twirl the end of my rope. There. I just want her to move
her hindquarters laterally. That’s it. Stay away from their front feet here. (clicking) There we go. There we go. Good girl. Now, you notice that she
didn’t really struggle at all with those front legs, did she? That’s a good sign. What I might do to her now
is just pull her off balance, just a little bit. There. I just want her to realize, there, that her front legs are
actually tied together. So I’m just gonna pull her off balance just a little bit here. There we go. You see how she can jump in the air, but she can’t get very high. Good. OK. See how she started licking her lips then? That’s a great place to just
let her think about that just for a little bit there. Now, one thing about when
I put the front hobbles on is I don’t want a horse to learn when they’ve got their
front legs tied together to actually move around. I will let the horse move
around with the sideline on, to where they actually can move around. I don’t mind that. But I have a rule that if their front
legs are tied together, they’d better imagine that
they’re glued to the ground. So I want them to learn, when their front legs are tied together, they should just stand still and relax. And so that’s why I’m not
going to lunge her around. I did pull her off balance a little bit, just so I wanted her to feel
that her legs were restricted, and I did yield her hindquarters, but I don’t actually wanna go
ahead and lunge her around. So the first time I go ahead
and put these hobbles on, I usually just stand
here with ’em like this for a good 10 minutes, just let ’em relax here a little bit. You can desensitize ’em,
throw the rope over their back and desensitize ’em with the
stick and string and so forth. But I’m always gonna stay with ’em. And after about 10 minutes, when she relaxes and she’s
not fighting anymore, that’s when I would go ahead
and take the hobbles off. Like I like that, there. See how she’s licking the
lips, she’s lowered her head? So that would be a great
place to take ’em off, there. Now, when you come up, always come up from a 45-degree
angle to their shoulder. So I’ll pull it over the
knob here, and then off. Now, I’m gonna go ahead,
pull her hind leg up, get a little closer here,
take the front leg off. Keep her nose tipped
towards you, and back leg. Good girl. Flex her. So that’d be a good place to
finish the hobbling lesson. Now, another little tip
that I’ll give you as well is do the hobbling exercise at the end of one of
your training sessions, preferably after you’ve ridden the horse and the horse has had
quite a good workout, because now he’s gonna be a little tired, he’s gonna be a little sweaty. He’s not gonna be real fresh and be feeling his oats, so to speak. I suppose what I’m trying to say is, you wouldn’t wanna lock ’em up in a stall for three or four days, feed
’em five buckets of corn, walk ’em out of their stall
and they’re breathing fire and they’re jumping out of their skin, and then go ahead and hobble ’em, ’cause you’re just asking for a wreck. Set your horse up for
success, not failure. So do it when your horse
is already thinking, he’s not reacting, he’s quiet, he’s calm, and preferably, he’s a little tired. That’ll take a little bit
more of that fight away. So what I would like to do with her, I’d do this every day with
her for the next seven days, except for the first three or four days, I would stand with her when I hobble her, for 10, 15 minutes, just stand with her. You can read a book, stand
there and desensitize her, whatever you wanna do. And after the first three or four days, when she’s proved to me she can stand for 10, 15 minutes without
a lot of struggling, then what I would do is, I would let her stand there unattended. So I could unclip the halter
or take the halter off, and just leave her in
the round pen by herself. But if she starts moving around, go ahead and, straightaway, go ahead and move in there,
disengage her hindquarters, pull her off balance, and
then let her stand there. I want her to think moving
around is difficult. Don’t walk off and just let
’em wander around the arena, ’cause, again, once they get in the habit of moving those front legs
when they’re tied together, it’s very difficult to fix. There’s no doubt that some horses are gonna fight more than others. My advice to you is, number one, you do want
’em to fight a little bit, meaning that you do want
’em to try to struggle and try to get out of it, and realize that fighting and struggling is not the right answer. Then when they stand still and they show signs of submissiveness, and they’re submissive, that’s when you take the
one-legged hobble off or the sideline off. So you’re teaching ’em that
standing still and relaxing is the way to get this
problem over and done with, but fighting and reacting
is not the way out of this. That’s what Mother Nature says. Mother Natures says,
rear, strike, kick, bite, fight your way out of it. We’re saying, no, don’t
fight, get submissive. And you can just see
here, the more I do this, the quieter she’s getting, the more she’s lowering
that head and neck. Good girl. She’s doing great. (rock music) (dramatic music) – [Narrators] Fundamentals
has shown you the basics. Now it’s time to put those
principles into practice. Get out of the arena and get on the trail. This all-new supplement will show you how to apply the method on the trail. You’ll get 10 instruction-packed DVDs and two hardcover books. That’s over $800 worth of
training for only $399. Get up, get out, and get on the trail. (upbeat rock music) – I wanna show you one more thing, mate, before the end of this show. Laying a horse down is something
that I really like to do to get a horse to be
submissive and respectful. Now, again, always do
your preparation first. Don’t try to lay a horse down with the method I’m gonna show you until you’ve done the
hobbling procedure first. Once you’ve done the hobbling procedure, getting a horse to lie down
is really not that difficult. So what we’re gonna do
here is, I’ve got a lariat. I like a 45-foot lariat, but it’s made out of triple-X soft rope. I like a lariat that has really soft rope, not like a traditional roping
rope that you steer rope with that’s really hard and abrasive and it’ll take a lot
of hair off your horse and burr ’em up a lot. The softer a rope is, the easier
it is on your horse’s legs. So what I wanna do is, for starters, let me just get this out of here, is I’m gonna go ahead and
pick a front leg up here. Squeeze here, there we go. And put this around her front foot. Then what I’m gonna do is, I’m gonna put my lariat over here, then I’m gonna grab it,
pull it back through. And what I’m gonna do is, I’m gonna ask her to pick that foot up, and I’m gonna make it harder
for her not to lie down. I’m gonna give her a choice, basically. The easier it is for her to lie down, the more she’ll wanna do it. So I’m gonna pick this foot up. I’m just gonna keep this over my elbow, ’cause she’s never had this done to her. Right, I’m gonna pick this
foot up and then release it. I’m gonna pick it up,
approach, and retreat. Approach and then retreat. Now, she shouldn’t
struggle with this much, ’cause we just did the hobbling. Now, I’m gonna pick it up, like so. OK, now I’m gonna get it nice and tight. I’m gonna get this rope
up on her withers here. And I’m gonna get her
leg up pretty tight here. Now I’m gonna take it around
and make a half-hitch. (clicking) Just be careful here,
’cause they might rear up. Well, she made it pretty
easy here, didn’t she? There we go. Good girl. Now what I’m gonna do,
just gonna lean over here and I’m just gonna take
this off her front foot here and let that front foot stretch out. That’s a girl. Pull this back through. Now, hang on a second, let me see. Well, she’s gonna get up again. Let me see if I can keep her down here. Good girl. Now, good news was, see here, pull it across her
hip here, and then release it. Every time she goes to get up, I’m gonna try to keep her back down. See how I’m pulling up across her hip? Difficult. Difficult. Release. Watch the timing. Notice that I’m pulling
across her withers and back. Good girl. Now, that was probably
about the most struggle she put up then, wasn’t it, right there, is trying to get up. Good news and bad news. Good news is, it took hardly any effort to get her to lie down. That means that she’s trusting me, she doesn’t have a lot of fight in her, and she’s not reactive. Bad news is, she probably
went down a little easier than what I would have
liked for the TV show. Most horses are not gonna
go down quite that easy. They’re gonna struggle a little bit. And you’re gonna pull on that rope, and as soon as they kneel down, then you’re gonna release the
rope and just stand there. And every time they get back
up again, you’re gonna pull it, and when they kneel down,
you’re gonna release it. And usually within two or three minutes, you can get ’em to lie down. So the good news is,
she went down quickly. Bad for the example for the camera. However, did you notice that when she tried to get up just then, every time she went to get up, I pulled that rope across
her withers and back and put that bend in her neck, and then when she lay back
down, I released that pressure. She tried to get up four or five times, and every time she went to
get up, I put her in a bind. Every time she lay down, I
took that pressure off her. Well, actually, that taught
her more than anything, ’cause that taught her that
when she wants to fight, it’s uncomfortable. When she relaxes, that
pressure is taken away. So I just wanna let her
relax here a little bit. Now, I love what she just did then. She took a big sigh. I felt her belly go up, I can
hear her groaning right now. So once they lie down,
then you wanna rub on ’em, make sure they’re comfortable
with you moving around ’em. Always have this rope over
the other side of their neck so you’re ready if they go to get up. Now, watch. That’s good. She thought about getting up just then, and then she decided not to. You can go ahead and do a
little desensitizing with ’em, with your rope. Make sure they’re comfortable with this. (clicking) Now I’m gonna ask her to get up. Now I’m just gonna pull
her back down again and ask her to lie back down. (clicking) Ask her to get up a little bit, and then lay her back down. Good girl. Every time you lay ’em back down, it gets ’em a little bit more submissive. This time, I’m gonna let
her get up completely. (clicking) Good girl. Excellent, good girl. She did really, really good. In fact, if I had to criticize her, she did a little too good. She went down a little too easy. But the good news is, that’s
what good preparation does. The more you prepare your horse, the easier these lessons are going to be. Well, I hope you’ve
enjoyed this week’s show. Cider is really coming along. She’s a very quiet mare,
got a great attitude, and she is gonna make somebody
a really good riding partner for the next 20 years, that’s for sure. Well, listen, mate. Until next week, take care of yourself, keep up the good work, and we’ll see you next week,
right here with Cider again. Take care, mate. (dramatic rock music)

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