Clinton Anderson: Training a Rescue Horse, Part 3 – Downunder Horsemanship
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Clinton Anderson: Training a Rescue Horse, Part 3 – Downunder Horsemanship

October 4, 2019


(powerful music) – I’m Clinton Anderson, and I have a method for training horses. Getting horses to behave is simple, it’s training people
that’s the real trick. Join me as I tackle some of the most challenging situations. With problem horses,
and with problem owners. (explosions) (shimmering) (determined country music) Isn’t it amazing to see
the improvement in a horse. You know, Cider’s had two lessons now with the Down Under Horsemanship Program and she went from a horse
that was very frightened of human beings and didn’t
want to get near us, and we didn’t have a lot
of control of her feet to now, in just two short sessions, she can do all of the
round pen techniques. We can desensitize her with
a stick and string, okay. She’s not perfect with any of this stuff but she’s considerably better, we can move all this around her. Remember how frightened
she was with the rope? Look at the difference now, we can throw the rope at
her and she stands still. So now, in her third lesson, what we’d like to do with her is start getting a little
bit more control of her feet in the fundamental series,
yield the hindquarters, yield the forequarters, back up. But she’s made great improvement
in just two short sessions. Good girl, I think she’s
gonna make a really nice, quiet horse for somebody, that’s for sure. Well, let’s get busy here. The first thing I wanna do is start to get a little bit more control of her hindquarters with the
halter and lead rope, okay. Now, I’m gonna take
the string off my stick and use it and put it around her neck and refer to that as the drive line. And I’ll show you where we’re going with this in a few minutes. Now, just to recap, it’s
very, very important to make sure that you have your
Legacy boots on your horse, when you’re training your horse, put those front boot
protective boots on them so that if they wack against each other, they’re not gonna hurt each other, damage their legs, or create any splints. Okay, there’s lots of
different boots on the markets, but for sure the Legacy boot made by Classic Equine is the very best. Okay, so we’ve got our
string on our horse’s neck. Now, we’re gonna keep
this simple, you ready? Anything, any pressure that
I apply behind the string causes the horse to
yield his hindquarters, okay, which is disengage or
move laterally or move forward. Any pressure that I apply
in front of the string will cause the horse to
stop, turn, or slow down. So what do I mean by yield and disengage? Anytime a horse crosses their hind legs, you’ve taken them off balance,
you’ve disengaged them. If you pushed on my chest now, you could push me off balance. Anytime a horse’s hind
legs are spread apart, now they’re balanced,
okay, they can run, buck, tear off, you know, take care, run away, all that kind of stuff. So you wanna make sure that
anytime you disengaging their hind legs cross. So, behind the string, if
we keep this real simple, is gas peddle, clutch. In front of the string
is steering wheel, brake. So that’s what the string on her neck is is it represents where the drive line is. So, we’ve already talked about, we did this in the round pen, didn’t we, about getting control of
the horse’s hindquarters that if we look at it here, see how she disengages that hindquarters and gives us two eyes? Remember we did this in the round pen without a halter and lead rope on her. Let’s build on it now and try and get it a little bit better with the halter and lead rope on. See how she’s steppin’ back here? I want, there, that’s a little better, step in front. So let’s get started here. The reason I like to start
with the hindquarters is that’s where the gas peddle is, that’s where that engine is, we gotta get this engine under control. The hardest thing for me to teach people is how to apply pressure correctly. Okay, there’s barbarians
that put too much pressure on and then there’s nagging mothers that don’t put enough pressure on. So, what we’re gonna do is we’re gonna put pressure on with rhythm and we’re gonna count to four. One, two, three, four,
one, two, three, four. Watch the end of the stick, One, two, three, four,
one, two, three, four, one, two, three, four,
one, two, three, four. With every set of four numbers if the horse does not respond, we’ll go to the next
level of pressure, okay. So I wanna get my right
hand up by her eye, we have passive and active body language, when I’m rubbing her, I
have passive body language. When I’m leaning forward, tapping the air, I have active body language, that means move away from that pressure. So I’m looking for her right hind leg to step in front of her left hind leg, step across, so I’m gonna
lean forward and tap the air. One, two, three, four,
if she doesn’t move, I tap her, one, two, three, four. Tap her a little harder,
one, two, three, four. One, two, three, four, one, two, there. Soon as they get one step, I rub it away, rubbing it away takes your body language from active to passive. (mellow upbeat country music) So there’s our first step, one, two, three, four, one,
two, three, there’s a second. So, I’m gonna start chipping away at this, see if I can get her to
move that hindquarters away and step across a little bit better. That’s a girl, and then rub her to a stop. Eventually, we’re looking for a 360 yield, wait, tap, there, on their forequarters. Imagine the horse’s front
legs are in a small circle, or hula hoop, I’m trying to get their front legs to stay in that circle an their hind legs to move around. 360, now that’s a lot better. Notice how I’m just tapping the air and she’s moving that
hindquarters, excellent. I want my horse to put
a little bit of bend with their head and neck as well, by bending their head and neck, they’re softening to that halter. Excellent, so she picked
up on this pretty quick but keep in mind, we already started to do some of this with her without the halter and
lead rope, didn’t we. That’s the advantage of
working in a round pen first. Looking for, there, one step, I want her left hind leg
to step in front of her right hind leg. Now, by raising this hand up in the air, okay, it discourages that
horse from doing two things, walking forward in a circle, okay, and pushing into me. ‘Cause if smile but she pushes into me, I’m gonna get my hand,
okay, and tap it on her jaw. There, that’s a lot better, excellent. See, what a lot of horses
will have a tendency to do, I’ll kind of coax her
to do the wrong thing, is they’ll walk forward
in a circle, like that. I don’t want her to walk
forward, I want her to pivot. So by raising this hand up in the air, and bending her head, it’ll cause that hind quarts to step away. Excellent, rub her to a stop. So this is what we call yield
the hindquarters stage one, good girl, she seems to
catch on really good. Next exercise is what we call yield the hindquarters stage two, where we want the horse to turn and give us two eye, kinda
like a salute, yes sir. Again, we’ve already
started to work on this, what we did in the round pen lessons by getting her to lean forward,
when she turns and faces us, we walk away from her. This is the same exercise but a little bit more dramatic now. So what I’m gonna do is
I’m gonna start to walk toward the hindquarters in a bigger circle and I’m gonna go one,
two, three, and on four if she doesn’t turn and
face me with two eyes, I’m gonna apply pressure
to her hindquarters and make her feel uncomfortable. So let’s have a go, you ready. One, two, three, four, there. Now even though she was technically
moving her hindquarters, she hadn’t given me what, two eyes. And as soon as she gives me two eyes, it’s very, very important
to rub them with the stick, make sure they’re not worried
about it or frightened of it. Okay, now I come back and
rub the hindquarters again. It doesn’t matter what
you do with the stick, if you rub it away, it
never really happened. So watch my body language, One, two, three, four, two eyes please. There we go again. (upbeat country music) So, you might say, well Clinton, how does the horse now
whether you want him to do yield the hindquarters
stage two and face you or just go around in
a circle in stage one? By your body language, in stage two you’re a lot more dramatic, you’re putting more energy into your body and you want that
hindquarters to swing away. Now, it doesn’t take them
long when they figure it out, now always come back here and rub it away, try again, you ready? One, two, good girl. That was the first time I
said one, two, I’m comin’ and she said, I know. Okay, that’s what we’re looking for. Always rub them with the stick
when they give you two eyes. Come back here again,
rub their hindquarters. If they get a little antsy
about you being back here, you can change it up and
go back and forth, okay. See how I walk a big circle, one, two, that’s what I’m looking for there. I give her three chances
to turn and face me, if by the fourth time I move the stick, she hasn’t turned and faced me, (horse neighing) I letter her run into it. One, two, there, not bad. So lets’ try the other side. Okay, three chances. One, two, three, four, there we go. Now, how hard you use the stick depends on how sensitive the horse is. If they’re pretty sensitive,
not very hard at all, if they’re pretty fat,
lazy, and disrespectful, you know, you might have to put quite a bit more effort into it. Rub them here, one, two, three, move that hindquarters, there we go, four. All she wanted to do then is kind of back up and face me. Rub her, it’s very important to
rub them with the stick when they give you two eyes. Okay, One, there, that’s a girl,
excellent, good girl. That was the first time on this right side she gave me what, two eyes. I like that she’s licking her lips, got her leg cocked, that’s even better. Now come back here and rub it away, always start by rubbing their butt. (shimmering) (country rock music) (dramatic music) (hard rock country music) (shimmering)
(mellow country music) Okay, the next thing I would
like to do with this mare is what we call lunging
for respect stage one. I want to get her feet to move and get her give into this pressure on the halter and lead rope, okay. Up til now, when she’s
been going around us, we’ve been having a free where if she hasn’t been restricted by the halter and lead rope, now we’ve got to get her to
yield and give to this pressure. Now notice that I said it’s
called lunging for respect, it’s not called lunging to
get the buck outta the horse, it’s not called lunging
to make them behave, it’s called lunging for respect. How do we gain a horse’s respect? By moving those feet, forwards,
backwards, left, and right. So, I’m gonna point up high with my rope, I’m gonna count to three, one, two, three, pressure, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, 10, 11, 12, there we go. Until she moves away. Now, see how she just faced me, I’ll drive her away again. Drive the neck, neck, neck, neck, and then you leave her alone. So direction, okay, it’s
direction first and impulsion. Send the front end away, then you can make the hind end catch up. It’s very, very important. So if anytime she stops and faces me, and I didn’t ask her to, I’m not gonna go back to her hindquarters to make her go forward, I’m gonna go to her front end to get her front end moved away. So now there’s three steps to yielding the horse’s hindquarters. Slide your hand down the rope, stab your belly button, and step towards the tail, like that. Now, I wanna bring her up
to the edge of my hula hoop, see how she’s a little reluctant
to get off that pressure? Now, I’m gonna rub her with the stick, I’m gonna try my best
to keep my feet still, point, whoever moves
first loses, remember. Point, one, two, three, see that one she rears up, four, five, six, there we go. So when she rears up like that, it’s not big deal, again, that’s why we use the 14
foot halter and lead rope. Okay, if she rears up,
I’ve got enough rope to get far enough away from her, I’m not in any danger. Again, another reason why we use the stick as an extension of our arm. Now, on this side she pulls
a lot more, doesn’t she, on the halter, now, see the tension? (quiet country music) So what I’m gonna do is
pull it and release it, pull it and release it, pull it and release it, okay. Pull it and release it, now I’m gonna yield her hindquarters, slide my hand down the rope, the next thing I’m gonna
do is what I called stab my belly button, which is pull my right
hand to my belly button, and then I’m gonna step towards her tail. (country rock music) So I’m starting to see
where her holes are, she doesn’t lead very good,
doesn’t give to pressure. Point up high, one, two, three, now that was really good. That time there before I got to four, she was already what, moving those feet. (horse sighing) So lunging for respect stage one is about driving the horse away, and then getting the horse to
yield and give you two eyes. Slide my hand down the rope,
pull it to my belly button, drive her hind quarters away, excellent. Now, that was the best one yet, what did you notice? That time, when I pulled on that rope, she immediately came
forward off that pressure, didn’t she, that was great,
you better reward her here. Good girl. Every other time I’ve picked
up on that halter rope, that lead rope, she’s kinda
leaned against it and braced up, that was the first time
she gave and came forward. Point up high, one, two, that’s exactly what I’m looking for. So the first couple
times I drove her away, I had to use the stick on her neck quite a few times, didn’t I, to make her feel uncomfortable to move. Now she’s at a point where I just point, pick up the stick, and she says, I know what to do, I’ll move. That’s good, make the right thing easy and the wrong thing difficult. Slide, stab, yield. Let’s see what she does. Ah, that’s a lot better. And you see, that’s another reason why you rub them with the stick
when they come up to you so they don’t get frightened of you. Now, her right side’s her bad side, point up high, one, excellent. Move away. Very, very good. We’re starting to see some
slack in the rope here, I’d like her to lunge
around me, eventually, with her nose tipped in towards me and some slack in that lead rope. She is starting to put
some slack in the lead rope but she’s pretty stiff
through her neck and body. Slide, stab, yield. Bring her up here, that’s a girl. So she’s done that pretty good, she learns quickly, doesn’t she, okay. (shimmering) (driven country music) (dramatic music) (country rock music) (shimmering)
(upbeat country music) Let’s move onto another lesson here, okay. So, when I teach a horse a lesson, if I don’t have to perfect
it before I move on, I just want her to
understand the basic concept. See variety is what keeps
your horse interested, consistency is how they learn, and variety keeps it interesting. So once I feel like they’ve
got the basic concept, I’ll try and teach them something new. So the next thing we’re gonna work on is what we call lunging
for respect stage two, this is where I want the horse to stop on his hindquarters,
roll over his hocks just like a cutting
horse, where they stop, pivot, and turn. Stop on their butt, collect
themselves, and turn, okay. So when you can get a horse
to walk up their hindquarters just like a cutting horse
and collect themselves, if you can get them to
do that on the ground, it’s much easier to get them
to do that under the saddle. Everybody wants a horse
collected when you ride them and you want their weight
to be on their rear end, not on their front end. Teach it to them on the
ground so it’s much easier to get them to do it under the saddle. So, in this exercise,
we’re looking for the horse to stop and turn in one motion. We don’t want it to be stop, look around, then got the other direct. It’s stop and get, okay. Let’s get started, point, one, there we go, I like that. I want that energetic departure, okay. I want it so that when I point, that horse says yes sir, I’m moving now. Now, there’s basically five steps to getting the horse to change directions. It’s very easy to do, anybody can do it. Palm up is number one. Number two, stick in your hand. Number three, slide
your hand down the rope. Number four, step in
front of the drive line. Number five, point up high and swing towards her head and neck. Remember, you’re driving
the head and neck away. This is a really good exercise
for horses that are pushy, kinda dominant, they’re always
invading your person space. Okay, horse that want to cut you off when you’re leading them, it’s great. Palm up, put the stick in your new hand, slide your hand down the rope, step in front of the driveline, point, excellent, not a bad turn either. This is a great exercise to do when you take your horse
away from home, okay. You know, when you go away to a horse show or a trail ride and you unload
your horse off the trailer, they’re often very what,
distracted, aren’t they, they kind of looking around. (mouth clicking) Okay, they’re looking around,
they’re not focusing on you, they’re whining, they’re spook and shying, they’re using that reactive
side of their brain. If you’ll do this to them, before you get on them and get them mentally listening to you, focused on you, okay, you’ll be amazed how
much better they’ll do when you ride them. Now right then, I ran into
her neck with the stick because she wasn’t moving that front end, okay, she’s gotta move the front end. She’s kinda pulling on
this lead rope here, she’s very stiff. Step in front (mouth clicking) move, move that front end. So now I’m gonna start
doing two steps here. I’m gonna step in front of the driveline and if she doesn’t move, (mouth clicking) I’m gonna run into her front
end there, make it move. Step in front, move. If I have to wack her on jaw,
I’ll do whatever it takes to make her move that front end away. Step in front,
(mouth clicking) Now that was a lot better, see that time she respected that space. Step,
(mouth clicking) move, that was terrible. See how she pivoted on those front legs, a horse can’t pivot on their front legs if their front legs are moving. So anytime I notice her
kicking her butt out, okay, that was a better turn, I’m gonna make that front end hustle. Now, if she wants to walk
and relax a little bit, that’s okay with me, okay. Step in front,
(mouth clicking) there, move that front end now. Okay, yield, excellent. Now look at that, look how much lighter she is on the halter. Woo, that took a bit of air
out of both of us, didn’t it. Okay, that’s why the lunging
for respect exercises are so good because lunging
for respect stage one gets control of the horse’s hindquarters, lunging for respect stage two get control of the horse’s forequarters. If you’ve got control of the hindquarters and forequarters, ultimately
it means you’ve got control of the whole horse, okay. So, even though she’s tired
and she’s out of air, okay, my goal was not to get
her tired and out of air, my goal was to do as
many changes of direction as I possibly could. You know, traditional lunging
is where the horse goes around, and around,
and around, and around. And eventually, when the
horse gets tired enough, okay, the horse will start to behave. My goal is not get her tired, my goals is to do as
many changes of direction as I possibly can. By moving those feet, forwards,
backwards, left, and right, and getting her to turn, while getting that horse to respect us and when they start to respect us, they’ll also use the thinking
side of their brain as well. (shimmering) (upbeat country music) (dramatic music) – [Instructor 1] Anything worth
having is worth working for, that’s for sure. – [Instructor 2] Not gonna make it here if you got any quit in ya. – This is where I needed to be the best that I could be and
that’s just what we do here. – [Announcer] Dedication,
ambition, passion, to some, these are more than ideals, they are a lifestyle, a code, a path to something greater. If you think you’re one of the select few who can rise to the challenge, who can dedicate themselves
to mastering the method through 70 weeks of in
depth, hands on training, let the Clinton Anderson
Academy catapult your skills and provide you with
the ultimate experience. If you have what it takes become a Clinton Anderson
Certified Clinician and change your life. (twangy country music) (shimmering)
(upbeat country music) – So now we’ve just done
a sensitizing exercise, now we better come back and what, do some desensitizing. If you only sensitize
your horse to pressure, they’re gonna get jumpy, spooky, just like this here. She thinks I want her to go,
just because I move the rope, does not mean I need
her to run away from me. Remember, there’s active body language and passive body language, so
it’s very, very important now to show her just because I move something doesn’t mean she has to move her feet. So, will she get confused
in the beginning? Very much so, okay, sometimes she’ll think I want her to move and I
really want her to stand still. Okay, and visa versa. So you start out there, withers and back, hindquarters, neck, back legs, front legs it’s very, very important after
every sensitizing exercise you come back and desensitizing them. Notice that I’m standing
up by the shoulder here, got my hand up by her eye, I’m using approach and retreat, okay. I wanna mention to you
again, it’s very important to keep that Pyranha
Fly Spray on your horses when you’re working with them, especially during those summer months when the flies are bad. Okay, keep their attention
on you rather than the flies and the best product to
use Pyranha Fly Spray. Excellent and the last
thing we do is what, pitch that whole rope over her body. I love to throw things at my horse that are never gonna hurt them, good girl. So far, I like her a lot, okay. I think she’s gonna be
very, very quiet and gentle once we get her broke, okay. I think she’s gonna be easy to teach and she seams really
willing overall, okay, wither and back, hindquarters, okay. That’s what I’m saying, there’s
thousands of rescue horses out there that you can get your hands on with just somebody spending
some quality time with them and following the method
of Down Under Horsemanship, you can take horses that
were completely unwanted or abandoned and turn
them into really nice, productive partners, okay. Very good, okay. Right here, mate, we’ve
already done the rope, now it’s time for the stick and sting, you always start out
flogging them with kindness. I want her to respect my tools but I don’t want her to fear them, it’s very, very important that
she doesn’t fear my tools. So I’m gonna get her eventually to where I can spank the ground with high energy and she
stands there and relaxes. Right now I’m just spanking
the ground with medium energy but over the next few lessons, it’s gonna get harder and harder, and I’m gonna try to make more noise. I know this sounds odd but the more you try to scare your horse, the less sacred they get. But the more you sneak
around them and babysit them, the jumpier and spookier they get. Excellent, very good. We always want to do
it on all three sides, I love to do a lot of it here out in front of my horse. Making sure they’re comfortable with this moving around their head. Very good, lots of this,
rubbing them here on their face. Look at that hindquarters, (mouth clicking) drive that hindquarters away. Whatever you do on one side, you must always do it on the other. Get your hand up by their
eye in case they push on you. Very good, so so far, I
really like her a lot. Excellent. Good girl, she’s doing great, good girl. (shimmering) (country rock music) – [Announcer] Ever wish Clinton Anderson would just come by and
help you with your horse or that he would put on a
clinic in your own arena? Well now you can get the next best thing, meet the Clinton Anderson
Certified Clinicians. Trained by Clinton himself, these great horsemen have
met all the requirements of the Clinton Anderson Academy. (determined rock music) 16 months of intensive training at the Down Under Horsemanship Ranch. Theoretical and practical
testing on Clinton’s method. Hand on experience with problem horses. Now, there is a Clinton
Anderson Method expert willing and able to come
to where you live and ride to teach a private lesson, or put on a public clinic. Learn at your own pace,
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travel far from home. So if you can’t find the time or the money to come to a Clinton
Anderson Clinic at his ranch, now you have an option. Get accelerated results,
let a Clinton Anderson Certified Clinician
bring the method to you. Visit certifiedclinician.com for more. – [Launch Controller]
Verify, ready to resume count and go for launch. – [Mission Controller] Minus 10, nine, – [Launch Controller] 52 – [Mission Controller] Eight,
seven, six, five, four, – [Launch Controller]
Flight, Houston Flight is go. – [Mission Controller]
Three, two, one, zero. (determined country music) – [Launch Controller]
Chief engineers, verify ready to resume count, go for
launch, mission completed . – [Flight Controller] Mission complete. (shimmering)
(determined country music) – I’ve stressed a lot about
taking care of your horse’s legs and I’ve mentioned using the
Legacy sports boots, okay. Another item that will really
help your horse as well, is our no turn bell boots. This is really good for horse
that do a lot of stopping and turning like barrel racing horses, cutting horses, reining horses where they slid up underneath themselves. Because when a horse really
uses their hindquarters and gets up underneath themselves, often they’ll over reach and they’ll grab the back of the bulb and they’ll either cut it
off or bruise themselves and they can get an abscess or eventually if they hit it hard enough
they can become pretty lame. So now that we’re getting her
a little bit quieter here, I’m gonna go ahead and put
the no turn bell boots on her, okay, just get them up underneath there. The Legacy boots and the
no turn bell boots, okay, they’re a cheap investment
on your horse’s well being. The next thing I’d like
to teach you how to do is how to flex to that
halter and lead rope. I didn’t like it when I was lunging her how stiff she was. So I’m gonna drop this down
just a little bit lower on her nose and I would like
her to bend her head and neck and for her nose to touch her belly, okay. Now, I’m gonna wait til
she stops moving her feet and she bends her head and neck and actually creates
slack in the lead rope. I would like her nose
to touch right in here where the girth would be. So I pick up, I hold it, she’s kinda leaning on that pressure. I’m gonna wait til she
actually gets off it by bending her head and neck and creating her own slack. It’s very natural for horses
to lean against pressure, lean against this lead rope. See her pulling, pulling, pulling, pulling, pulling, hold it, hold it, she’s really pulling. (mellow country music) She’s pulling, hold that pressure and I’m gonna wait til she gets off it, I’m not gonna make her, I’m gonna wait. Get ready, nearly, she’s bending her head
but she hasn’t created slack in the lead rope, there’s a big difference everybody. Just because the horse bend their head does not mean they’ve actually created slack in the lead rope. There she just did, and see
how quickly I release her, the secret to getting a horse really light is in how quick
you release that pressure. The quicker you release that pressure, the quicker the horse learns. Pick up, wait, wait, wait, there, little bit of release right there. The quicker you release that pressure, the quicker she’ll learn, too. Pick up, hold it, she’s pulling on me, pulling on me. See, I wanna make sure I
can teach her how to flex before we saddle her, I’ve gotta get that
nose tipped towards me, I’m holding it, there
she gave, release it. Some horses will back up,
doesn’t matter what they do, you just hold that pressure and wait. Like here, see how she’s spinning around, that’s where you stay close
to their hindquarters, hug it here, hold it, so this is probably the hardest
thing she’s had to do so far which is actually just
give to that pressure. Hold it, wait, (horse sighing) there, then she released, give back to her. I want to teach my horses the quickest way to get me to turn loose is just to give to that pressure, that was really good. I just want to move her
just a little bit over here so hopefully you guys
can get a better angle. A lot of people say, well
Clinton, how do you get the horse to stop spinning around or backing up? Well, the answer is you don’t stop them, you just wait til they figure it out. You wait til they stop moving their feet, she’s really pulling on
this halter right now. Really pulling on it, see
her just leaning on that? This is why I use these rope halters ’cause it makes her feel very
uncomfortable for doing it. If that was a webbing halter, I guarantee she just would
of kept leaning on it. That’s why I hate traditional
leather or webbing halters, these rope halters work a lot better. So so far, this is her weakest area, she’s extremely stiff. We’ve gotta get her to
soften up laterally. If we can teach it to her on the ground, it’s gonna be much easier to
teach it to her under saddle. Hold, now she created slack
there but her nose was coming up towards my armpit, I want it
to come to her own armpit. Hold it, hold it, hmm, nearly. There, that’s a girl. I actually like it when they
keep their head bent like this, that’s a good sign that
she’s wanting to do that. Just let her think about it. Pick up, so the first time we
teach something, again, remember that’s a
concept lesson, isn’t it. Get the horse to understand the concept. Hold it, there, release it, that was really good. Good girl. I’m gonna work on the other side now. (mouth clicking) So she seems to be quite a bit
stiffer on this right side, again, I’ve just gotta wait
for her stop moving her feet there and soften. So everyday that I do this, she’ll just get lighter and lighter but it’s very important that you work on both sides everyday. So, so far this is the
weakest part of Cider is getting her to give and yield, flex to the halter and lead rope pressure. But, it’s a starting point today and she’ll get better
tomorrow and the next day, she’s just kinda leaning on
it, there she got off it. Excellent, so there’s one bit
more thing I wanna do with her is we’re pretty much gonna
end the lesson with her now except I don’t wanna just
put her away straight away, I want to tie her up, I wanna
let her think about the lesson but because we don’t
know how well she ties, more than likely she
doesn’t tie up at all, okay, and she doesn’t lead very well and give to that pressure. So more than likely, if we
tied her up to a solid post, she would pull back,
try to break the halter and lead rope, she
wouldn’t but she would try. She might try to break her
neck, flip over backwards and hurt herself. We’re gonna use the Aussie
tie ring to tie her up and not only are we gonna use that but I’m gonna show her some
desensitizing exercises to get her really quiet at the same time. (shimmering) (determined country music) – [Announcer] Clinton Anderson,
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(mellow country music) – What I’d like to do is tie Cider up here for an hour or two and just
let her think about the lesson, develop some patience and so forth, okay. But I don’t wanna tie
her up something solid because more than likely
she’s gonna pull back and hurt herself. This is where the Aussie tie
ring comes in handy, okay. I use the Aussie tie ring
for young horse, foals, weanling, yearlings, two-year-olds. Any horse that’s kind
of spooky and reactive that you think might pull back and really, every horse is
capable of pulling back, so it’s not just for
horses that have a problem you can use it for all types of horses. But what you do is you double
your lead rope in half, put it through the ring and what happens with the Aussie tie ring is if a horse pulls back they’re able
(mouth clicking) to pull that rope through the ring and as they pull the rope through the ring and they get further away from the fence, it makes them feel less
trapped and claustrophobic. Remember, anytime you tell a horse that they can’t move their feet, they’re gonna wanna fight and resist it. Remember, horses are
flight or fight reaction. So by allowing the rope
to pull through the ring, your horse no longer has a
desire to want to pull back. Now, there’s three basic
settings on the Aussie tie ring, that’s the easiest, if you want to make it a little bit harder to pull it through, you take it over the back like that. (mouth clicking) And if you want to make it harder again, you can throw it over the top like so. And then it’s even harder again. Now, if I had a horse that
really wanted to pull back bad, I’d have it on the
easiest possible setting, having it on the easiest
setting will make the horse, see this here, this is
what I’m talking about, she’s gotta learn to come off
that pressure a lot better. But having it on the easiest setting will cause them to wanna
fight the least amount. So, not only will I tie them up with it but I’m actually gonna see
if I can make her pull back. Remember when I said before the harder you try to scare your horse, the less you scare them. I have another little saying,
heart attacks are free so give your horse one. (low country music) The more you sneak around the horse, the jumpier and spookier they get. The more you try to scare them, the quieter and more relaxed they get. So what I’m gonna do is I’m
gonna tie her up to this and see if I can’t make her pull back. (loud shushing) Now she probably pulled back, what, six, seven feet right there, so I’ll walk up, rub her face, good girl, then bring her up again. (mouth clicking) Come off that pressure now, that’s a girl, just like that there. Now I connected the Aussie
tie ring to the fence just with my string off
my handy stick, okay, you can use a bit of bailing string or the string off your
stick, anything, okay. Do it again. (loud shushing) Now that was a lot better,
did you notice that time she didn’t hardly move
her feet at all, did she? Okay, now, if she was
tied up to something solid when she would of hit that
pressure behind her pole with hat halter and lead rope, I guarantee she would of fought that and tried to flip over backwards. But because she was able to move her feet her desire to wanna pull
back was completely erased because she was able
to move her feet, okay. (loud shushing) And I just wanna get her to
where I can move my arms around, make noise, and so forth and my horse is not worried about it
all, good girl, okay. Excellent. (loud shushing) So I just do it at a
stand still to begin with and then approach and retreat. Okay, and then you can get
further away from your horse as they start getting better with it and see if you can run up to them. (loud shushing) This is gonna be really good for her because she does get kind
of worried and nervous when you approach her quickly. So I’m gonna do lots of this where I’m approaching her quickly, okay and then just run up and rub her. Run up and rub her. Every time she pulls back, I’ll try to get her off that pressure, there, pull it back through and rub her. So I’m gonna do lots of
running up and rubbing her until she just is not worried
about that pressure at all, good girl. I don’t want my horses
worried to be around me, okay, you need to be able to get them to where you can move your
arms, that’s a girl, good girl and the horse is not worried. So I’m kinda running through
this a little quicker here but I’ll spend a good
five, 10 minutes doing this for two or three days in a row until they just get absolutely bomb proof. Other things you can do to them, okay, is throw your lead rope at
them, as they’re tied there. See, I’d like to get her
to come off that pressure, you notice that I always
pull her off to the side. That’s it, so you can get them to where you can throw
your lead rope at them. Make sure they staying tied there, I do this a bunch with my baby foals, weanling, yearlings, you
tie them up with a tie ring, you’re never gonna get into a wreck. Other things you can
do is you can flip this up over their head, okay, this is great for head shy horses. So I’ll use the tie ring
on all horses, okay. That’s it, excellent. And just get them comfortable with having it moved around them, take it over their back,
what ever you do on one side you can do it on the other. They’ve gotta get used to, (mouth clicking) move that hindquarters
over, that’s a girl. They gotta get used to seeing that rope come up to her face on that side. Excellent, so I’m just
gonna mess around with her a little bit more off camera and just desensitizer her
a little bit more, okay and then we’ll move one,
good girl, she’s doing great. The Aussie tie ring will save
your horse from getting hurt because it’s not if your
horse ever pulls back it’s when and how much damage
do they do to themselves. Thousands of horses get
seriously injured or killed every year by pulling back
and hurting themselves, okay, it’s very, very important. See how she’s worried about
his over the top of her, you can do this, she doesn’t like anything up behind her, does she, okay. (thoughtful country music) Okay, just get her used to
things touching her butt here. Now, I’m using the 14 foot lead rope, it’d be a little easier
if I used the 23 foot rope that we’ve got, the long line, okay. Just get her used to this here, that’s excellent, just touching her there. (mouth clicking) That’s a girl, good girl. I’m gonna take these boots off her and we’ll tie her up, leave
her, let her think about it. It’s what I call tie
my horse up to the tree and post of knowledge. You’d be amazed what your horses can learn when they tied up to the
tree and post of knowledge. The last thing I wanna do when
I get done training a horse is take them straight back to the barn and put them in their stall
and let them eat and drink. ‘Cause pretty soon, that’s all they start
thinking about is that, okay. I wanna get my horse after a lesson and see if I can get them (mouth clicking) to think about the lesson. And that’s what I call
tying them up to the tree and post of knowledge. When you tie a horse up
after a training session it makes them think, it makes them develop patience and respect and it really helps that lesson sink in. It’s no different than kids
or your own lessons in life, often, we don’t really get the lesson that the teacher’s trying to get give us until we’ve had a chance
to really kind of digest it and think about it. But whenever I tie them up, I always take the boots off them to let their legs cool off. Good girl, a lot quieter
than what we started with. So, I’ll leave them tied
up, oh two or three hours, longer even, okay, if
they’re under some shade, you could leave them
tied up for several hours with out a problem at all. But if I’m gonna leave them
tied up for any length of time, I’ll always try to have some
sort of a fly mask on them, fly sheet, boots, something
to keep the flies off them in addition to the Pyranha Fly Spray. (shimmering) Good girl. (country rock music) (determined music) – [Announcer] Fundamentals
has shown you the basics, now it’s time to put those
principles into practice. Get out of the arena and get on the trail. This all new supplement
will show you how to apply the method on the trail. You’ll get 10 instruction packed DVDs and two hard cover book. That’s over $800 worth of
training for only $399. Get up, get out and get on the trail. – [Launch Controller]
Verify ready to resume count and go for launch. – [Mission Controller]
Minus 10, nine, eight. – [Launch Controller] 52. – [Mission Controller]
Seven, six, five, four. – [Launch Controller] Flight. – [Flight Controller]
Houston flight is go. – [Mission Controller]
Three, two, one, zero. (determined music) – [Launch Controller]
Chief engineer verify to resume count, go for
launch, mission completed. – [Mission Controller] Mission complete. (shimmering)
(mellow country music) – Remember how I mentioned to you is very important to keep
the flies off your horse to stop them being irritated and so forth, especially when I’m leaving
them long amounts of time tied up and you can
even use these products out in the pasture when
your horse is loose as well. These are basically leg protectors, okay, and what they do is they keep your horse, you ever seen those
horses getting driven nuts out in the pasture when they’re stomping
their legs all the time and trying to get the
flies off them, okay. These are Cashel products
and they work extremely good about getting the flies
off your horse’s legs. So if you’re gonna tie them up, put these protective leg boots on them and it’ll stop them from stomping and trying to get the
flies off their legs, okay. They’ve got a padded back on them to stop them from rubbing on your horse, that’s why you can turn
them loose in the pasture or in a small turnout area and
they can wear these all day, see the padded area in
here in the back here? They’re made out of fly mesh here, so they’re extremely breathable, they’re very lightweight, okay, so they’re not gonna rub your horse, make it breathable and more than anything, your horse is gonna love you because you’re gonna keep
those flies off him all day. It’s very important. That’s a great product, another really good
product that Cashel make is the fly blanket, okay, fly sheet. Horses spend a lot of time, especially in the summer
months, out grazing, okay. It’s very, very important that
you keep those flies off them as best you can. Now, the Pyranha Fly Spray makes
a big difference, of course but these products will
just finish it off. You’ll get it all undone here. Okie dokie, so she’s
probably more than likely never had a blanket on her, so I’m gonna have to use a little bit of approach and retreat here, a little bit of up and
down, desensitize the air, approach and then retreat,
approach and retreat, this is how you get a blanket on one that’s never had one on. So she’s handling it
pretty good here, okay. And I’ll go ahead and put
the whole thing over her. That’s good, there we go. Excellent, now, of course, depending on how big your horse is in size will make a big difference. This one looks a little bit big for her but we can tighten it up in some areas. There we go, the thing I like
about the belly strap here, let me just turn it around,
is the belly strap really, (mouth clicking) she thinks this is a bit weird. See how she’s gotta learn to
give to this pressure here. (mouth clicking) There we go, good girl. Is this belly strap really stops a lot of those annoying flies from getting under their belly. You ever seen those horses
kicking at their belly when they’re turned out in the pasture? This will stop all of that. Okay, in a big way, excellent. I’m just gonna loosen this
off just a little bit here, about there, okay. This blankets just a tad bit big for her and then the leg straps. Now you can turn them
out in these blankets and they’re not gonna move, okay. The horses can exercise
themselves, run around and before you turn them loose
with a blanket like this, make sure you move them
around you a little bit so that they’re used to it. I personally cross the hind
straps, you don’t have to but I personally do, I think
they fit a little bit better. There we go, so she’s
never wore this before. Yield her hindquarters here. (mouth clicking) First time they move it can
be a little scary for them. (mouth clicking) I could tighten those leg
straps up a little bit, too. She seems pretty good with it. And this here is a real
important one, fly mask, keeping those flies out of their eyes. These are relatively inexpensive products that can really mean a lot to your horses. Now, she’s probably gonna
be frightened of this and you can tell she already is, she’s never had anything
around her face like this. So again, we use approach
and retreat, don’t we, anytime your horse is scared, use approach and retreat, like that. Don’t try and just sneak it up on her, use approach and retreat,
that’s a girl, excellent. Then I’m just gonna get it,
rub it all over her face, okay. Sometimes the horses don’t like that Velcro noise up by their head, so I might do it, put this over my elbow in case she leaves town. (scratching) And get her used to this. Excellent, okay, use a
little approach and retreat. Now, I’m gonna leave the halter on her at least initially just to get this on her to make sure she’s gonna
react all right, okay. Good girl, that’s pretty good. And then you can go ahead, put this off, take this off
and put it around her neck that way if she went
to give me in trouble, I’ve still got some
sort of control on her. The protective ear covers will stop gnats and all those bugs getting
inside your horse’s ears. I know they look like they just kinda landed off a space craft but it does keep them safe. That’s a girl. (mouth clicking) Okay,
(chuckling) little bit big this blanket, and I would tighten up
the leg straps on it but other than that,
after she was tied up, you could turn her loose
in the pasture like this and she would be
protected, she’d be happy, and she’d be a lot safer, too. (shimmering)

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