How To Fix A Bike Puncture On Race Day | Inner Tube Replacement Or Tyre Sealant?
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How To Fix A Bike Puncture On Race Day | Inner Tube Replacement Or Tyre Sealant?

October 21, 2019


– Getting a race day puncture
can be really frustrating, but it shouldn’t be the end to your day. They can be quick to fix, providing you have the tools for the job. And there are a couple of
methods for fixing a puncture. So today, I’m gonna run
through how to do that for a clincher tyre. And to start with, we’re
gonna do the basic, and possibly the most fail-safe solution, which is a full inner tube replacement. For this, you’re going
to need an inner tube, a set of tyre levers, and then a means of pumping the tube up. That can be a mini pump
or a CO2 cartridge. Now if you’re running deep section wheels, you need a valve extender on the tube. Obviously, you can just take the valve off your old, punctured tube. Or, something that I’ve found
really helpful over the years is to actually have a spare already set up on the new tube so you’re all ready to go. To change the tube, and first
of all, it may seem obvious, but remove the wheel from the bike. Then check whether
there’s anything obvious sticking out of the wheel. If there is, just remove it carefully. Now release the valve and
deflate the tyre fully. Then, using your tyre levers, just pull one side off the rim. (rubber and tyre rim squeaking) Then remove the inner tube. Now it’s important that you
check the inside of the tyre for the source of the puncture, too. So just gently run your fingers around the inside of the tyre. Now with the new tube, you’ll
want to open up the valve and put a little air in it. You can do that using your mini pump or if you’re choosing to
just use CO2 canisters, and you want to save that, you can actually do it by
blowing into the valve yourself. Now we’re on to placing
the new tube into the tyre. To start off with, we
want to place the valve into the valve hole. Now I want to seat the tube in the tyre and just tuck it under. Now that you’ve got the tube seated, start putting tyre back
over the rim by hand. When you get towards the end and it’s hard to pull the tyre over, you can start using the tyre levers. Whilst you’re putting the tyre back on, try not to pinch the tube. Then just to double-check
once it’s all on, just run ’round the
tyre and just make sure that the tube isn’t pinched between bead of the tyre and the rim. Now you’re ready to pump up the tyre. For that you can use a mini pump or a quick option is to use a CO2 canister. Another, and possibly
slightly quicker, option is to use something like a sealant. This isn’t going to be permanent fix but it will get you to
the end of the race. Actually, it’s something
the pros use quite a lot. It works be releasing a liquid latex and propane repellent into the tube sealing the point of puncture
and then filling the tube. It works mostly on punctures around a one millimetre wide or less. So if you have something
like a nail sticking out, I wouldn’t rely on this. So you will still need to
bring something else along to fix that puncture. In the heat of the race, it’s not uncommon to see someone having a little
foam party with one of these. They do require a little
delicacy (laughing) so here is a step-by-step
guide on how to use them. As we did with replacing the tube, just check there isn’t anything obvious sticking out of the tyre. Now release the valve and
deflate the tyre fully. Then you want to line up the valve with the nozzle of the sealant. Then to fill the tube,
just push the sealant straight onto the valve and refrain from tilting
the nozzle at all. Now once it’s fully released, just grab hold of the nozzle
and pull straight down, and then clean off any residue and then close the valve. Then quickly rotate the wheel to make sure that the sealant is well-dispersed. It is an expanding latex
solution that, in theory, a whole canister should get to 110 psi. But should you need to top up further, you can just use a CO2
canister or your mini pump. So we go, that is how to
fix a race day puncture for a clincher tyre. Clearly, one option is
quicker than the other, but it is just a temporary fix. It is worth taking all
the tools to make sure that all eventualities are covered. If you like this video,
give it a thumb up like. To see more videos like this, just click on the globe
to subscribe to GTN. And to see some T1 tips from the pros, just click down here. And to see some best-value
upgrades for the bike, just click down here.

Only registered users can comment.

  1. Finally 1/2 video needs (more like a routine as I watch them before I sleep as they always upload at 12am)completed waiting for your sister channel to upload now 😂

  2. I never use the lever to pull back the tyre !!!! It will pinch the tube almost everytime !!!! Gcn and Triathlon Taren explained how to do it by hand !!

  3. Crank Brothers Speedier Lever for Tire. Impossible to pinch the tube. Takes the tire off in seconds. Re-seats the tire around the wheel in seconds also. Amazon it for $9. Not sure how well it is with carbon, as unfortunately I don't have that problem.

  4. I had a puncture 20 minutes before the start of a race this summer..
    Removed the tube, checked the tire, put in a new tube and pumped it up and i got another flat.
    Turns out I got a rift in the tire while riding to the race.

    I was lucky, and some stranger borrowed me a spare wheel (which was worth more than my bike…)

  5. If you are using a minipump, be sure to brace the head/valve against something (I use my knee). If you don't there is a chance the you will get excited, pump hard, and damage the valve preventing it from holding air. I've done it and seen others do it too. Once guy actually ripped the valve stem from the tube.

  6. I've used pittstop in tubulars before. It doesn't work on bigger cuts or pinch punctures from my experience. Moral of story? Don't get a puncture on race day xD .

  7. Love the content you are producing o the channel but you seem to be afraid to make longer video's that provide greater detail. I would like to see Mark do a more detailed version of this video. I've changed a lot of punctures and it can be much more difficult to do this on the roadside. I would like to see Mark change the tyre on the road side (like his GCN colleagues) and give advice on how to remove and re-install your rear wheel as it is much more difficult to remove a wheel from the horizontal dropouts on most TT bikes than to remove a wheel from most road bikes. On that point, you want to make sure you have your chain in the proper gear to make it easier to remove and re-install your rear wheel (it should be on the small ring on your crank and on the cassette) and you need to make sure you re-install the chain properly on the cassette when you re-install the wheel. In addition, it can be much more difficult to remove a tyre, depending on the tyres you use. I use the Continental 4000's that Mark uses in the video and they are very easy to remove from the rim – other tyres are not so easy to remove so some advice on how to remove and re-install the tyre onto the rim (especially if you are doing this roadside!) would be helpful for those who are new to changing tyres. Also….if you are using a C02 cartridge it is not obvious how to do it – this is worth its own video! Looking forward to "Fixing a Puncture 2.0."

  8. Would you need to take the wheel off if you're just pumping in sealant? Should be unnecessary, right? From puncture back to racing in under a minute sounds very enticing.
    My tools: 2x CO2, CO2 inflater, 2 levers. Mini hex tool. and 1 or tubes depending on race length. I also have a couple of zip ties at in my bento for miscellaneous needs.

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