How to Prep and Prime Artist Resin Model Horses for Painting – Remastered Video
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How to Prep and Prime Artist Resin Model Horses for Painting – Remastered Video

August 16, 2019

Craftsmanship is everything, not only for
a winning model horse but for an amazing work of art in your collection. That is an especially big deal if you bought
an expensive artist resin. Great craftmanship is a joy to hold and it
starts with prepping and priming. I’ll teach you everything from sanding to
spraying primer for that perfect surface before painting your artist resin. Washing is an absolute crucial first step. It gets rid of all dust, grime and any finger
grease that would cause issues with your paint and potentially ruin your finish work. It’s pretty easy, just use soap, warm water
and a tooth brush. Baking soda is great if you need something
gritty to really remove the grime or grease. Just be careful with this step, especially
around delicate areas like legs and ears. Not all resins have wire reinforcements in
these areas, especially minis like I’m working on here. Be sure to rinse thoroughly and get all that
soap off. What makes resins unusual to prep over plastic
models are their airholes and sometimes rough seams. It can really help to run a pencil over your
model and reveal pinholes and imperfections with the graphite. Carefully inspect and make sure you note the
details as well as any carved artist signatures. Try not to fill these in. If your resin was cast from a 3D print, you’ll
have some unique challenges to consider. 3D printers often leave fine lines when building
up a print and a resin cast will reveal these lines. Sometimes these resins are really rough, as
with this Brio and Phoenix. Sometimes they aren’t so bad, like this
Copperfox Mini Cob. Bondo glazing and spot putty is your best
friend for filling imperfections. Pair it with your humble tooth pick and you’re
good to go. Poor just a little bit of Bondo at a time
and apply tiny dots onto the rough areas, scrapping away the excess. With a consistency in-between clay and water,
it is great for filling in small holes but is terrible for building up large areas. It will crack. If you need to resculpt, get out your epoxy
clay instead. Some resins, like those made from 3D prints,
will need a lot of Bondo. Luckily for you, this Brio resin is an extreme
case. After your Bondo has cured, you need to prep
all your seams. A carbide scraper or a file like these ones
will do the trick. Be very gentle around those delicate legs
and don’t press too hard because resin is much softer than plastic. Remembering that resin is softer is the biggest
difference between prepping a plastic Breyer and prepping an artist resin. When you are done just depends on your resin. This Sarah Rose Moxie was a dream and finished
quickly. The Lemme At Em resin…. not so much. Now we need to grab our sand paper and sand
away! Be sure to use very fine grit automotive sandpaper
around 1000 grit or more so you don’t put harsh lines in your soft resin. Now to rinse and don’t forget to use soap
to help remove the grime. Use baking soda if you have a lot of grit
to remove. Be thorough and reach the nooks and crannies. Using gloves to insure you don’t put new
grease on your horse, prime in a well-ventilated area. Also, always wear respiratory gear while priming! Your health comes first! The first pass of primer always reveals the
airholes that you missed. It’s frustrating, but it’s important to
check for them. Also check that the primer across the body
is nice and smooth, making note of where it is not. Using extra fine automotive sand paper, make
the body smooth. Don’t forget to sand the seams again. For those tight nooks and crannies, you’ll
need your files and you can also fold down the sand paper into little triangles for those
tight spots. That was only phase one. These are looking pretty nice, but they aren’t
ready for paint yet. Sooooo…let’s add more Bondo! Wash them again. And prime! Depending on your resin, you may need to repeat
the prepping, washing and priming stages several times before you have the perfect surface. When it is perfect, it will be ultra smooth
without an imperfection or airhole insight. When you reach this stage, you are done prepping. All that is left is one more bath before you
paint! You are now ready to prep and prime like a
pro, so go forth and get some clothes on those naked resins of yours. Thank you for watching! Follow me on social media, visit my website, and subscribe to my YouTube channels so you never miss a
tutorial or tip on how to customize and paint model horses.

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  1. Hello! I actually have a concern, i really love your videos and this was super helpful for me as I've never prepped a resin before, i ordered the Bondo Glazing and spot putty from your link but there are a LOT of health issues that come with using this stuff. I was using it in a not extremely well ventilated area and hadn't read the warning label until it was a little too late. It can cause nervous system damage, loss of hearing, reproductive damage and cancer. It was my error for not reading the label but if something is this dangerous maybe it shouldn't be used, is there an alternative? I had no idea it was this dangerous and would just like to let you know, thank you for the helpful tutorial!!!

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